Chapter 6. Electrical

Chapter 6. Electrical xjcdadmin Mon, 05/17/2010 - 23:12

 

 

 

Charging System

Charging System xjcdadmin Mon, 05/17/2010 - 23:48

CHARGING SYSTEM


B. A.C. generator

1. Checking method.

a.   Connect D.C. voltmeter to the battery terminals.

b.  Start engine.

c.   Accelerate engine to approximately 2,000 r/min or more and check generated voltage.

Generated voltage: 14.5 ± 0.3V

d. If the indicated voltage cannot be reached, then perform the tests in step 2.

CAUTION:
Never disconnect wires from the battery while the generator is in operation. If the battery is disconnected, the voltage across the generator terminals will increase, damaging the semiconductors.

2. Resistance test of field coil and stator coil.

Check the resistance between terminals. If resistance is out of specification, coil is broken. Check the coil connections. If the coil connections are good, then the coil is broken inside and it should be replaced.

Field coil resistance: (Green-Brown) 4.5S2 ± 10%at20°C (68°F)

Stator coil resistance: (White-White) 0.5n ± 10% at20°C(68°F)

Field coil

Stator coil

C. Voltage regulator

The IC Voltage Regulator is a small and, normally, very reliable component. Due to its construction, it is lightweight and free from the wear and misadjustment associated with mechanical voltage regulators. If the follow-

ing inspection reveals that the regulator is faulty, it cannot be adjusted and must be replaced.

1. Checking IC Voltage Regulator

a.   Open the seat.

b.   Remove the right side cover.

c.   Measure the specific gravity of the battery fluid. If it is less than 1.260, remove the battery and recharge until it is more than 1.260. (See page 6-17 for charging procedures)

d.  Check the battery terminals and couplers for looseness.

e.   Connect two Yamaha pocket testers to the regulator coupler as illustrated.

 

CAUTION:
Be careful not to let the tester leads short circuit when connecting them to the regulator snap connector leads.

f. Turn the main switch on. Make sure that V2 is less than 1.8V.

 

NOTE:
Do not turn on lights or signals.

g. Make sure that V2 gradually increases up to 9 ~ 11V when the engine is started and its revolutions go up.

h. Make sure that V1 maintains the level of 14.2 - 14.8V even when engine revolutions increase.

i. If these levels are not maintained, the regulator is defective and must be replaced.

2. Checking the silicon rectifier

a. Check the silicon rectifier as specified using the Yamaha pocket tester.

Checking element

Pocket tester

connecting point

Good

Replace

(element

shorted)

Replace

(element opened)

(red)

(-1

(black)

D1

d

a

O

O

X

a

d

X

O

X

D2

d

b

o

0

X

b

d

X

0

X

D3

d

c

o

o

X

c

d

X

o

X

D4

a

e

O

o

X

e

a

X

o

X

D5

b

e

0

0

x

e

b

X

0

X

D6

c

e

o

o

X

e

c

X

o

X

O : Continuity

x : Discontinuity (∞)

b. Even if only one of the elements broken, replace the entire assembly.

 

CAUTION:
The silicon rectifier can be damaged if subjected to overcharging. Special care should be taken to avoid a short circuit and/or incorrect connection of the positive and negative leads at the battery. Never connect the rectifier directly to the battery to make a continuity check.

Ignition System

Ignition System xjcdadmin Mon, 05/17/2010 - 23:56

IGNITION SYSTEM

B.    Description

This model is equipped with a battery operated, fully transistorized breakerless ignition system. By using magnetic pick-up coils and need for contact breaker points is eliminated. This adds to the dependability of the system by eliminating frequent cleaning and adjustment of points and ignition timing. This T.C.I. (Transistor Control Ignition) unit in corporates an automatic advance circuit controlled by signals generated by the pick-up coil. This adds to the dependability of the system by eliminating the mechanical advancer. This T.C.I, system consists of two main units; a pick-up unit and ignitor unit.

C.   Operation

The T.C.I, functions on the same principle as a conventional P.C. ignition system with the exception of using magnetic pick-up coils and a transistor control box (T.C.I.) in place of contact breaker points.

1. Pick-up unit

I, Pick-up coils

This unit consists of two pick-up coils and a magneto mounted on the crank-case (L.H.) When the reluctor (timing plate) projection passes the pick-up coil, the two signals are generated at the pickup coil and transmitted to the ignitor unit as a signal. The full ignition advance is determined by the width of the reluctor (timing plate) projection.

2. Ignitor unit

1. Ignitor unit (T.D.I, unit)

This unit has such functions of wave form, duty control, switching, electrical ignition advance, and etc. The ignition timing is advanced electrically using two signals from the pick-up coil. The duty control circuit is provided to control the on time period of the primary ignition current to reduce the electrical consumption. This unit also incorporates a protective circuit for the ignition coil. If the ignition switch is turned on and the crankshaft is not turned, the protective circuit stops current flow to the primary coil within a few seconds. When the crankshaft is turned over, the current is turned on again by the signals generated by the pick-up coils.

CAUTION:
Do not run the engine without any spark plug cap(s) in place. Due to the high secondary voltage, it is possible to damage the internal insulation of the secondary coil.

D. Troubleshooting/ inspection

1. The entire ignition system can be checked for misfire and weak spark using the Electro Tester. If the ignition system will fire across a sufficient gap, the entire ignition system can be considered good. If not, proceed with individual component tests until the problem is found.

a. Warm up engine thoroughly so that all electrical components are at operating temperature.

b. Stop the engine and connect the tester as shown.

c. Start the engine and increase the spark gap until misfire occurs. (Test at various r/min between idle and red line.)

minimum spark gap: 6 mm (0.24 in)

CAUTION:
Do not run engine in neutral above 6,000 r/min for more than 1 or 2 seconds.

2. If the ignition system should become inoperative, the following troubleshooting aids will be useful.

Check entire ignition for connections

Correct

   

Check battery for voltage and specific gravity

Recharge battery

   

Check fuse and fuse connections

Correct connection or

replace fuse

   

Check resistance of ignition coil (primary and secondary) Primary: 2.5 Ω ± 10%at20°C (68°F) Secondary: 11KΩ± 20%at20°C(68°F)

Replace

ignition Coil

   

Check pick-up coils for resistance Pick-up coil: 650 Ω ± 20% at 20°C (68°F)

Replace pick-up Coil

   

TCI unit is faulty, replace unit

   

3. Ignition coil

a. Coil spark gap test

1)   Remove the fuel tank and disconnect the ignition coil from wire harness and spark plugs.

2)  Connect the Electro Tester as shown.

3)  Connect fully charged battery to tester.

4)  Turn on spark gap switch and the increase gap to maximum unless misfire occurs first.

minimum spark gap: 6 mm (0.24 in)

b. Direct current resistance test. Use a pocket tester or equivalent ohmmeter to determine resistance and continuity of primary and secondary coil windings.

Standard value: Primary coil resistance:

2.5Ω t 10%at20°C (68°F) Secondary coil resistance:

11KΩ ± 20%at20°C(68°F)

Primary coil check

Secondary coil check

4. Spark plug

The life of a spark plug and its discoloring vary according to the habits of the rider. At each periodic inspection, replace burned or fouled plugs with new ones of the specified type. It is acutally economical to install new plugs often since it will tend to keep the engine in good condition and prevent excessive fuel consumption.

a.   Inspection

1)  Inspect and clean the spark plug every 4,000 km (2,500 mi) and replace after initial 13,000 km (8,000 mi).

2)  Clean the electrodes of carbon and adjust the electrode gap to the specification.

b.   Installation

Be sure to use the proper reach, type and electrode gap plug(s) as a replacement to avoid overhating, fouling or piston damage.

Type:

D8EA (NGK) or X24ES-D (ND) Electrode gap:

0.6 - 0.7 mm (0.024 - 0.028 in) Tightening torque:

2.0m-kg (14.5 ft-lb)

Lighting System

Lighting System xjcdadmin Mon, 05/17/2010 - 23:59

LIGHTING SYSTEM

B. Lighting tests and checks The battery provides power for operation of the headlight, taillight, and meter lights. If none of the above operates, always check battery voltage before proceeding further. Low battery voltage indicates either a faulty battery, low battery water, or a defective charging system. See page 6-5 "CHARGING SYSTEM" for checks of battery and charging system. Also check fuse condition. Replace any "open" fuses. There are individual fuses for various circuits (see complete Circuit Diagram).

NOTE:
Check the headlight bulb first before performing the following check.

1. Headlight check

NOTE:
When the engine is started, the headlight and meter lights come on automatically and the lights stay on until the main switch is turned to "OFF" even if the engine stalls.

HEADLIGHT DOES NOT COME ON WHEN ENGINE IS RUNNING

 

 

Check for voltage on

"W" wire to headlight relay

Check AC generator, diode, or wiring circuit

 

Check for battery voltage (12V) on "R/Y" wire to headlight relay

Check fuse "Head" or wiring circuit

 

Check for battery voltage (12V) on "L/B" wire from headlight relay

Replace headlight relay

2. Taillight does not work:

a.   Check bulb.

b.     Check for 12V on blue wire.

c.   Check for ground on black wire to tail/ brake light.

HIGH BEAM AND/OR LOW BEAM DO NOT LIGHT

 

No voltage

Dimmer switch defective

Check for battery voltage at dimmer switch terminal

 

Check for battery voltage at headlight high beam or low beam terminal

No voltage

Open or poor connection between headlight and dimmer switch terminal

2. Taillight does not work:

a.   Check bulb.

b.     Check for 12V on blue wire.

c.   Check for ground on black wire to tai brake light.

Poor ground or poor connection of headlight

wiring

Signal System

Signal System xjcdadmin Tue, 05/18/2010 - 00:04

SIGNAL SYSTEM

B. Signal system tests and checks The battery provides power for operation of the horn, brakelight, indicator lights and flasher light. If none of the above operates, always check battery voltage before proceeding further. Low battery voltage indicates either a faulty battery, low battery water, or a defective charging system. See  "CHARGING SYSTEM" for checks of battery and charging system. Also check fuse condition. Replace any "open" fuses. There are individual fuses for various circuits (see complete Circuit Diagram).

1.    Horn does not work:

a.   Check for 12V on brown wire to horn.

b.  Check for good grounding of horn {pink wire) when horn button is pressed.

2.    Brake light does not work:

a.   Check bulb.

b.  Check for 12V on yellow wire to brake light.

c.   Check for 12V on brown wire to each brake light switch (front brake and rear brake switches).

3.    Flasher lights(s) do not work:

a.   Check bulb.

b.   Right circuit:

1)  Check for 12V on dark green wire to light.

2)  Check for ground on black wire to light assembly.

c.   Left circuit:

1)  Check for 12V on dark brown wire to light.

2)  Check for ground on black wire to light assembly.

d.   Right and left circuits do not work:

1)  Check for 12V on brown/white wire to flasher switch on left handlebar.

2)  Check for 12V on brown wire to flasher relay.

3)   Replace flasher relay.

4)   Replace flasher switch.

e.   Check flasher self-cancelling system. (Refer to flasher self-cancelling system.)

4. Neutral light does not work:

a.   Check bulb.

b.  Check for 12V on sky blue wire to neutral switch.

c.   Replace neutral switch.

6. Oil level warning light does not work:

a.   Connect oil level switch (black/red wire) to ground. If light comes on, check for proper oil level.

b.   If oil level is correct, replace oil level switch.

C. Self-cancelling flasher system

1.    Description:

The self-cancelling flasher system turns off the turn signal after a period of time or distance involved in turning or changing lanes. Generally, the signal will cancel after either 10 seconds, or 150 meters (490 feet), whichever is greater. At very low speed, the function is determined by distance; at high speed, especially when changing speeds the cancelling determination is a combination of both times and distance.

2.    Operation:

The handlebar switch has three positions: L (left), OFF, and R (right). The switch lever will return to the "OFF" position after being pushed to L or R, but the signal will function. By pushing the lever in, the signal may be cancelled manually.

3.    Inspection

If the flasher self-cancelling system should become inoperative, proceed as follows:

a. Pull off the 6-pin connector from the flasher cancelling unit, and operate the handlebar switch, if the signal operates normally in L, R, and OFF, the following are in good condition.

1)  Flasher unit

2)  Bulb

3)   Lighting circuit

4)  Handlebar switch light circuit

If (1) through (4) are in good condition, the following may be faulty:

1)   Flasher cancelling unit.

2)  Handlebar switch rear circuit.

3)  Speedometer sensor circuit.

b.   Pull off the 6-pin connector from the flasher cancelling unit, and connect a tester (ohms x 100 range) across the white/green and the black lead wires on the wire harness side. Turn the speedometer shaft. If the tester needle swing back and forth between 0 and co, the speedometer sensor circuit is in good condition. If not, the sensor to wire harness may be inoperative.

c.   Pull the 6-pin connector from the flasher cancelling unit. Check if there is continuity between the yellow/red lead wire on the wire harness side and the chassis.

Flasher switch OFF: co Flasher switch L or R: 0 ohms

If the tester needle does not swing as indicated above, check the handlebar switch circuit and wire harness.

d.   If no defect is found with the above three check-ups and the flasher cancelling system is still inoperative, replace the flasher cancelling unit.

e.   If the signal flashes only when the handlebar switch lever is turned to L or R and it turns off immediately when the handlebar switch lever returns to center, replace the flasher cancelling unit.

Starting System

Starting System xjcdadmin Mon, 05/17/2010 - 23:26

ELECTRIC STARTING SYSTEM

B. Starter motor

1.    Removal (see CHAPTER 3. "ENGINE DISASSEMBLY")

2.    Inspection and repair

a.   Check the outer surface of the commutator. If its surface is dirty, clean with# 600 grit sand paper.

b.  The mica insulation between commutator segments should be 0.4 — 0.8 mm (0.02 "- 0.03 in) below the segment level. If not, scrape to proper limits with appropriately shaped tool. (A hack saw blade can be ground to fit.)

NOTE:
Mica insulation of commutator must be undercut to ensure proper operation of commutator.

c. The starter's armature coil should be check with an ohm meter for insulation break down (shorting to each other or to ground) and for continuity. Reference figure is given below.

Coil resistance:

Armature coil: 0.012H at 20°C (68°F

Continuity check

Insulation check

d.  Check the front and rear cover bearings for damage. If damaged, the starter assembly must be replaced.

e.   Check brush length. Replace brush if at, or near, limits.

Minimum brush length: 5.0 mm (0.20 ia

f. Check brush spring pressure. Compare it with a new spring. Replace the old spring if it is weak.

C. Starter relay switch 1. Inspection

a.   Disconnect starter cable at the relay.

b.  Connect pocket tester leads to the relay terminals (ohms x 1 scale).

c.   Turn ignition to "ON" position, engine stop switch to "RUN" and change lever to "NEUTRAL".

d.   Push the starter button. The relay should click once and the scale should read zero if it does not read zero, the relay must be replaced.

1.   Baltery lead wire (+)

2. Starter motor lead wire

e. If the relay does not click, check the wires from the starter button and from the battery (red/white, blue/white). Turn the ignition off. Use (ohms x 1) scale on tester. The resistance between these wires should be no more than 3.5 ohms. If there is more resistance, the relay should be replaced.

E. Starting circuit cutoff switch

1.    Open the seat and remove the fuel tank.

2.    Connect pocket tester leads to the relay terminals (ohms x 1 scale).

3.    Check the resistance between terminals. If resistance is out of specification, relay is broken. The relay must be replaced.

Unit: Ω

∞_

Pocket tester

connecting point

Black

(+) Red


Blue

# 1

Red/ While

Black/ Yellow

#2 Red/ White

Blue


160 ~240

8 ~

12

#1 Red/ White


 

8lack/

Yellow

104 ~156


#2

Red/

White

oo


∞ : Discontinuity

Switches

Switches xjcdadmin Tue, 05/18/2010 - 00:07

Switches may be checked for continuity with a pocket tester on the "ohms x 1" position. 1. Main switch

Switch

Position

Wire Color

R

Br

L

ON

OFF

LOCK

P (parking)

2. "ENGINE STOP" switch

Switch Position

Wire Color

R/W

R/W

RUN

OFF

3. "START" switch

Button Position

Wire Color

L/W

Ground

PUSH

OFF

4. "LIGHTS" (Dimmer) switch

Switch Position

Wire Color

Y

L/8

G

HI

LO

5. "TURN" switch

Switch

Wire Color

Position

Ch

Br/W

Dg

Y/R

Ground

L

L > N

N > Push

R > N

R

6. "HORN" switch

Button

Position

Wire Color

P

Ground

PUSH

OFF

Battery and Fuel sender

Battery and Fuel sender xjcdadmin Tue, 05/18/2010 - 00:13

1. Checking

If the battery shows the following defects, it should be replaced.

a.   The battery voltage will not rise to a specific value or no gassing occurs in any cell even after many hours of charging.

b.  Sulfaction of one or more cells is indicated by the plates turning white or an accumulation of material in the bottom of the cell.

c.   Specific gravity readings after a long slow change indicate a cell to be lower than any others.

d.  Warpage or buckling of plates or insulators is evident.

WARNING:
Battery fluid is poisonous and dangerous, causing severe burns, etc. Contains sulfuric acid. Avoid contact with skin, eyes or clothing.


Antidote:

EXTERNAL-FLUSH with water.

INTERNAL-Drink large quantities of water or milk. Follow with milk of magnesia, beaten egg or vegetable oil. Call physician immediately.

Eyes: Flush with water for 15 minutes and get prompt medical attention. Batteries, produce explosive gases. Keep sparks, flame, cigarettes, etc., away. Ventilate when charging or using in enclosed space. Always shield eyes when working near batteries.


KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.

2.    The service life of a battery is usually 2 to 3 years, but lack of care as described below will shorten the life of the battery.

a.   Negligence in keeping battery topped off with distilled water.

b.   Battery being left discharged.

c.   Over-charging with heavy charge.

d.   Freezing.

e.   Filling with water or sulfuric acid containing impurities.

f.    Improper charging voltage or current on new battery.

3.    If the motorcycle is not to be used for a long time, remove the battery and have it stored. The following instructions should be observed:

a.    Recharge the battery periodically.

b.  Store the battery in a cool, dry place.

c.   Recharge the battery before reinstalla-tion.

Battery

12N12A-4A

Electrolyte

Specific gravity l 280

Initial charging current

1.2 amp for 10 hours (new battery)

Recharging current

10 hours {or until specific gravity reaches 1.280)

Refill fluid

Distilled water (to maximum level line)

Refill period

Check once per month (or more often if required)

F. Fuel meter sender unit

1.    Open the seat.

2.    Connect the pocket tester leads to the sender unit terminals (ohms x 1 scale).

3.    Check the resistance between terminals. If resistance is out of specification, unit is broken. The unit must be replaced.

Fuel tank

condition

Resistance

FULL

75-85 Ω

EMPTY

6~10 Ω