1. Brake adjustment

a. Front brake lever free play adjustment

The brake can be adjusted by simply adjusting the free play of the brake lever. The piston in the caliper moves forward as the brake pad wears out, automatically adjusting the clearance betweenthe brake pads and brake disc.

CAUTION:
Proper lever free play is essential to avoid excessive brake drag.

1. Adjuster 2. Lock nut a. 5 — 8 mm (0,2 ~ 0.3 in)

1)   Loosen the adjuster lock nut on the brake lever.

2)  Turn the adjuster so that the brake lever movement at the lever end is 5 ~ 8 mm {0.2 ~ 0.3 in) before the adjuster contacts the master cylinder piston.

3)  After adjusting, tighten the lock nut.

b. Rear brake pedal height adjustment

1)  Loosen the adjuster lock nut (for pedal height).

2)   By turning the adjuster bolt clockwise or counterclockwise, adjust the brake pedal position so that its top end is approximately 20 mm (0.78 in) below the foot rest top end.

3)  Secure the adjuster lock nut.

WARNING:
After adjusting the pedal height, the brake pedal free play should be adjusted.

1. Adjuster bolt            3. Footrest

(for pedal height)   4. Pedal height 20 mm (0.8 in)

2.  Lock nut                   5. Free play 20 — 30 mm (0.8—1.2 in)

c. Rear brake pedal free play adjustment

Turn the adjuster on the brake rod clockwise or counterclockwise to provide the brake pedal end with a free play of 20— 30 mm (0.8- 1.2 in).

NOTE:
Check to see whether or not the brake light operates correctly after adjusting.

2. Front brake pad and rear brake shoe check

a. Front brake pad

To check, look at the pad wear indicator in back of the caliper. If any pad is worn to the wear limit, replace both the pads in the caliper. Front

1. Wear indicator

b. Rear brake shoe

To check, see the wear indicator position while depressing the brake pedal. If the indicator reaches to the wear limit line, replace the shoes.

1. Wear limit 2, Wear indicator

3. Brake fluid

Insufficient brake fluid may allow air to enter the brake system, possibly causing the brake to become ineffective. Check the brake fluid level and replenish when necessary observing these precautions:

1. Lower level

a. Use only the designated quality brake fluid; otherwise, the rubber seals may deteriorate, causing leakage and poor brake performance.

Recommended brake fluid: DOT#3

b.  Refill with the same type and brand of brake fluid; mixing fluids may result in a harmful chemical reaction and lead to poor performance.

c.   Be careful that water or other contamination does not enter the master cylinder when refilling. Water will significantly lower the boiling point and may result in vapor lock.

d.   Brake fluid may erode painted surfaces or plastic parts. Always clean up spilled fluid immediately.

Drive chain

1. Drive chain tension check

NOTE:
Before checking and/or adjusting, rotate the rear wheel through several revolutions and check the tension several times to find the tightest point. Check and/or adjust chain tension with rear wheel in this "tight chain" position.

Inspect the drive chain with the center stand put up. Check the tension at the position shown in the illustration. The normal vertical deflection is approximately 35- 40 mm (1.4 ~ 1.6 in). If the deflection exceeds 35 ~ 40 mm (1.4~1.6 in) adjust the chain tension.

a. 35*^40 mm (1.4**-1.6 in

2. Drive chain tension adjustment

1.    Loosen the rear brake adjuster.

2.    Remove the cotter pin of the rear wheel axle nut with pliers.

3.    Loosen the rear wheel axle nut.

4.    Loosen the adjust bolt lock nuts on each side. To tighten the chain turn chain puller adjust bolts clockwise. To loosen the chain turn adjust bolts counterclockwise and push wheel forward. Turn each bolt exactly the same amount to maintain correct axle alignment (There are marks on each side of rear arm and on each chain puller; use them to check for proper alignment).

1. Lock nut 2. Adjuster 3. Marks for align 4. Rear wheel axle nut 5. Cotter pin

5.    After adjusting, be sure to tighten the lock nuts and the rear wheel axle nut.

6.    Insert the cotter pin into the rear wheel axle nut and bend the end of the cotter pin as shown in the illustration (if the nut notch and the cotter pin hole do not match tighten the nut slightly to match).

CAUTION:
Always use a new cotter pin on the rear axle nut.

NOTE:
Excessive chain tension will overload the engine and other vital parts; keep the tension within the specified limits.

7. In the final step, adjust the play in the brake pedal.

3. Drive chain lubrication The chain consists of many parts which work against each other. If the chain is not maintained properly, it will wear out rapidly. Without lubrication the chain could wear out within 500 km (300 mi), therefore, form the habit of periodically servicing the chain. This service is especially necessary when riding in dusty conditions.

1.    Use YAMAHA CHAIN/CABLE LUBE or any of the many brands of spray type chain lubricant. First, remove dirt and mud from the chain with a brush or cloth and the spray the lubricant between both rows of side plates andon all center rollers. This should be performed every 500 km (300 mi).

2.    To clean the entire chain, first remove the chain from the motorcycle, dip it in solvent and clean out as much dirt as possible. Then take the chain out of the solvent and dry it. After drying lubricate the chain to prevent the formation of rust.

Tubeless tires and aluminum wheels

This motorcycle is equipped with aluminum wheels designed to be compatible with either tube or tubeless tires. Tubeless tires are installed as standard equipment.

WARNING:
Do not attempt to use tubeless tires on a wheel designed for use only with tube-type tires. Tire failure and personal injury may results from sudden deflation.

Tube-type Wheel — Tube-type tires only

Tubeless-type Wheel — Tube-type or Tubeless tires When using tube-type tires, be sure to install the proper tube also.

Tubeless tire

Tube-type tire

To insure maximum performance, long service, and safe operation, note the following precautions:

1.    Check tire pressure, before riding, adjust as necessary.

2.    Before operation, always check the tire surfaces for wear and/or damage; look for cracks, glass, nails, metal fragments, stones, etc. Correct any such hazard before riding.

3.    Always inspect the aluminum wheels before a ride. Place the motorcycle on the center stand and check for cracks, bends or warpage of the wheels. Do not attempt even small repairs to the wheel. If a wheel is deformed or cracked, it must be replaced.

4.    Tires and wheels should be balanced whenever either one is changed or replaced. Failure to have a wheel assembly balanced can result in poor performance, adverse handling characteristics, and shortened tire life.

5.    After installing a tire, ride conservatively to allow the tire to seat itself on the rim properly. Failure to allow proper seating may cause tire failure resulting in damage to the motorcycle and injury to the rider.

6.    After repairing or replacing a tire, check to be sure the valve stem lock nut is securely fastened. If not, torque it as specified.

Tightening torque: 0.15 m-kg (1.1 ft-lb)

If the fuel petcock is
leaking or excessively contaminated, it should be removed from the fuel
tank and inspected.

1.   
Remove the fuel tank and position it so that fuel will not spill when
the petcock is removed.

2.   
Remove the petcock and inspect the filter screen. Replace the filter if
seriously contaminated.

3.   
Remove the screws on the front and rear of the petcock and remove
the plate, gasket, lever, and diaphragm.

4.   
Inspect all components and
replace any that are damaged. If the diaphragm is in any way damaged,
or the petcock body gasket surfaces scratched or corroded, the petcock
assembly must be replaced. If there is abrasive damage to any
component, the fuel tank must be drained and flushed.

5.   
Reassemble the petcock and install it on the fuel tank.

Cable inspection and lubrication

WARNING:
Damage to the outer housing of the various cables, may cause corrosion and often free movement will be obstructed. An unsafe condition may result so replace such cables as soon as possible.

1. If the inner cables do not operate smoothly, lubricate or replace them.

Recommended lubricant:

Yamaha Chain and Cable Lube or

SAE 10W/30 motor oil

I. Throttle cable and grip lubrication

The throttle twist grip assembly should be greased when the cable is lubricated, since the grip must be removed to get at the end of the throttle cable. Two screws clamp the throttle housing to the handlebar. Once these two are removed, the end of the cable can be held high to pour in several drops of lubricant. With the throttle grip disassembled, coat the metal surface of the grip assembly with a suitable all-purpose grease to cut down friction.

Brake and change pedal/brake and clutch levers

Lubricate the pivoting parts of each lever and pedal.

Recommended lubricant:

Yamaha Chain and Cable Lube or SAE 10W/30 motor oil

Center and side stand pivots

Lubricate the center and side stands at their pivot points.

Recommended lubricants:

Yamaha Chain and Cable Lube or SAE 10W/30 motor oil

Front fork oil change

WARNING:
Securely support the motorcycle so there is no danger of it falling over.

1. Raise the motorcycle or remove the front wheel so that there is no weight on the front end of the motorcycle. Remove the handlebar if necessary.

2.    Remove the rubber cap from the top of each fork.

3.    The spring seat and fork spring are retained by a stopper ring (spring wire circlip). it is necessary to depress the spring seat and fork spring to remove the stopper ring. Remove the stopper ring by carefully prying out one end with a small screwdriver,

4. Place an open container under each drain hole. Remove the drain screw from each outer tube.

WARNING:
Do not allow oil to contact the disc brake components. If any oil should contact the brake components it must be removed before the motorcycle is operated. Oil will cause diminished braking capacity and will damage the rubber components of the brake assembly.

1. Drain screw

5.    When most of the oil has drained, slowly raise and lower the outer tubes to pump out the remaining oil.

6.    Inspect the drain screw gasket. Replace if damaged. Reinstall the drain screw.

7.    Pour the specified amount of oil into the fork inner tube.

Front fork oil (each fork):

230 cc (7.78 oz) Recommended oil:

Yamaha Fork Oil 10 wt or equivalent

8.    After filling, slowly pump the forks up and down to distribute the oil.

9.    Inspect the "O-ring" on the spring seat. Replace "O-ring" if damaged.

10. Reinstall the spring seat, stopper ring and rubber cap.

CAUTION:
Always use a new stopper ring (spring wire circlip).

F. Rear shock absorber

If the spring seat is raised, the spring becomes stiffer and if lowered, it becomes softer.

Standard position................A

A. position.................Softest

E. position................ Stiffest

Steering head adjustment

The steering assembly should be checked periodically for looseness.

1.    Raise the front end of the motorcycle so that there is no weight on the front wheel.

2.    Grasp the bottom of the forks and gently rock the fork assembly backward and forward, checking for looseness in the steering assembly bearings.

3.    If there is looseness in the steering head, loosen the steering stem and front fork pinch bolts and steering fitting bolt.

4.    Use a steering nut wrench to loosen steering fitting nut.

5.    Tighten the steering fitting nut until the steering head is tight, but does not bind when forks are turned.

6.    Retighten the steering fitting nut, steering fitting bolt and steering stem and front fork pinch bolts, in that order.

7.    Recheck steering adjustment to make sure there is no binding when the forks are moved from lock to lock. If necessary, repeat adjustment procedure.

A. Battery

1. The fluid level should be between the upper and lower level marks. Use only distilled water if refilling is necessary.

CAUTION:
Normal tap water contains minerals which are harmful to a battery; therefore, refill only with distilled water.

2. Always make sure the connections are correst when installing the battery. Make sure the breather pipe is properly connected, properly routed, and is not damaged or obstructed.

CAUTION:
The battery must be charged before using to insure maximum performance. Failure to properly charge the battery before first use, or low electrolyte level will cause premature failure of the battery. Charging current: 1.2 amps/10 hrs or until the specific gravity reaches 1.280 at 20°C (68°F)

WARNING:Battery electrolyte is poisonous and dangerous, causing severe burns, etc. It contains sulfuric acid. Avoid contact with skin, eyes or clothing.

Antidote:
EXTERNAL-Flush with water.
INTERNAL—Drink large quantities of water or milk. Follow with milk of magnesia, beaten egg or vegetable oil. Call physician immediately.

Eyes:
Flush with water for 15 minutes and get prompt medical attention. Batteries produce explosive gases. Keep sparks, flame, cigarettes, etc. away. Ventilate when charging or using in closed space. Always shield eyes when working near batteries. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.

Headlight

1. Headlight bulb replacement

a. Remove the cowling assembly.

b. Remove the 2 screws holding the light unit assembly to the headlight body.

c.   Disconnect the lead wires and remove the light unit assembly.

d.   Remove the top and bottom fitting screws and the horizontal adjusting screw. Remove the light unit assembly from the headlight rim.

e. Remove the sealed beam unit holding screws. Remove the unit retaining ring and the defective unit.

f.    Slip a new sealed beam unit into position and secure it with the retaining ring and install it into the headlight rim.

g.   Reinstall the light unit assembly to the headlight body. Adjust the hedalight beam.

h. Reinstall the cowling assembly.

2. Headlight beam adjustment

a. Horizontal the beam to the right, turn the adjusting screw clockwise. To adjust the beam to the left, turn the screw counterclockwise.

b. Vertical adjustment:

Loosen the adjusting screw under the headlight body. Adjust vertically by moving the headlight body. When proper adjustment is determined, retighten the adjusting screw.

a.  Horizontal adjusting screw

b.  Vertical adjusting screw

Taillight

1. Taillight bulb replacement

a.   Open the seat.

b.   Pull open the lid in the seat cowl.

c.   To remove the bulb, turn it approxi matety 30° counterclockwise.

1.Lid 2. Bulb

d. To install the bulb, reverse the removal procedure.

1. Check the electrode condition and wear, insulator color and electrode gap.

2.    Use a wire gauge for measuring the plug gap.

3.    If the electrodes become too worn, replace the spark plug.

4.    When installing the plug, always clean the gasket surface. Wipe off any grime that might be present on the surface of the spark plug, and torque the spark plug properly.

Standard spark plug:  D8EA (NGK) or X24ES-U (ND)

Spark plug gap:  0.6-0.7 mm (0.024 ~ 0.028 in)

Spark plug tightening torque:  2.0 m-kg (14.5 ft-lb)

1. Removal

a.   Open the seat.

b.   Remove the side cover (left).

c.   Remove the air cleaner case cover by removing the four screws.

d. Pull out the element.

I. Air filter element

2. Cleaning method

Tap the element lightly to remove most of the dust and dirt; then blow out the remaining dirt with compressed air from the inner surface of the element. If element is damaged, replace it.

3.    Reassemble by reversing the removal procedure. Check whether the element is seated completely against the case.

4.    The air cleaner element should be cleaned at the specified intervals.

CAUTION:
The engine should never be run without the air cleaner element installed; excessive piston and/or cylinder wear may result.

The cam chain becomes stretched with use, resulting in improper valve timing and engine noise. To prevent this, the cam chain ten-sioner must be adjusted regularly.

1.    Remove the timing plate cover.

2.    Slowly rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the "C" mark on the timing plate aligns with the stationary pointer.

3. Loosen the tensioner lock nut and then loosen the stopper bolt. This releases the cam chain tensioner with the proper tension.

1. Lock nut 2. Stopper bolt

4. Tighten the stopper bolt and lock nut.

Stopper bolt torque: 0.6 m-kg (4.3 ft-lb) Lock nut torque:         0.9 m-kg (6.5 ft-lb)

5. Reinstall the timing plate cover.

NOTE:
The carburetors are numbered 1, 2, 3, and 4 from the left when viewed from astride the motorcycle.

1.    Idle mixture

The idle mixture is set at the factory by the use of special equipment. No attempt should be made by the dealer to change this adjustment.

2.    Synchronization

The seat must be opened and the rear of the tank elevated to gain access to the vacuum connections and synchronizing screw of the carburetors.

NOTE:
The valve clearances must be set properly before synchronizing the carburetors.

a.   Remove the vacuum pipe from the carburetor manifold (No. 2 cylinder) and turn the fuel petcock to "PRI".

b.   Remove the rubber caps from the No. 1, 3, and 4 carburetor manifolds.

1, Vacuum pipe 2. Rubber cap

c.   Remove either the left or right (but not both) blind plug at the end of the YICS (Yamaha Induction Control System) passage in the cylinder.

d.   Insert the YICS shutoff tool (special tool) fully and flip the locking lever.

e.   Connect each vacuum gauge hose to its proper carburetor.

1. Vacuum gauge

f.   Start the engine allow it to warm-up for a few minutes. The warm-up is complete when engine responds normally to the throttle opening.

g.   Make sure the engine idle speed is 1,000 ~~ 1,100 r/min. If it does not, adjust the idle speed with the throttle stop screw.

NOTE:
With the YICS shutoff tool fitted, the engine speed generally drops a little. Thus, continue with the following steps at idle speed of 1,000~ 1,100 r/min.

h. Each gauge reading will indicate the same if the carburetors are synchronized. The No. 3 carburetor has no synchronizing screw and the other carburetors are to be synchronized to it in order, one at a time.

First, synchronize carburetor No. 1 to carburetor No. 2 by turning the No. 1 synchronizing screw until both gauges read the same.

Second, in the same way synchronize carburetor No. 4 to carburetor No. 3. Third, by adjusting No. 2 screw to watch No. 3 carburetor reading, No. 1 and No.2 carburetors will both change to match No. 3 carburetor.

1. Synchronizing screws

i. Make sure that the engine now develops an idle engine speed of 1,000 ~ 1,100 r/min. If it does not, adjust the idle speed with the throttle stop screw and repeat the steps starting with g.

j. Remove the YICS shutoff tool and reinstall the blind plug.

Tightening torque:

2.2m-kg (16.0ft-lb)

3. Idle speed adjustment

NOTE:
Carburetors must be synchronized before setting final idle speed. The idle speed adjustment is made by turning only one throttle stop screw.

a.   The engine must be warmed up before setting idle speed.

b.  Set the engine idle speed by turning the throttle stop screw in (to increase engine speed) or out (to decrease engine speed).

Standard idle speed: 1,200 r/min

1. Throltle stop screw

Free play adjustment

a.   Loosen either the handlebar lever adjuster lock nut or the cable length adjuster lock nut.

b.  Turn the cable length adjuster either in or out until proper lever free play is achieved.

Clutch lever free play:

2 - 3mm (0.08 ~ 0.12 in)

1, Lock nut 2. Adjuster a. 2 — 3 mm (0.08— 0.12 \n)

1. Lock nut 2. Adjuster

Insufficient compression pressure will result in performance loss and may indicate leaking valves or worn or damaged piston rings. Procedure:

1.    Make sure the valve clearance is correct.

2.    Warm up the engine 2^3 minutes.

3.    Remove all the spark plugs.

4.    Install a compression check gauge.

5.   Turn over the engine with the electric starter (make sure the battery is fully charged) with the throttle wide open until the pressure indicated on the gauge does not increase further.

Compression pressure (at sea level):

Standard ............ 8.5 kg/cm²(121 psi)

Minimum............ 7.0 kg/cm²(100 psi)

Maximum .......... 9.5 kg/cm²(135 psi)

WARNING:
When cranking the engine, ground the removed spark plug wires to prevent sparking.

1. Compression gauge

6.    If the pressure is too low, squirt a few drops of oil into the cylinder being measured. Measure compression again. If there is a higher reading than before (without oil), the piston rings may be worn or damaged. If the pressure remains the same after measuring with the oil, either or both the rings and valves may be the cause.

7.    Check each cylinder. Compression pressure should not vary more than specified value from one cylinder to any other cylinder.

Difference in gauge reading: Less than 1 kg/cm² (14 psi)

1. Oil level measurement a. Place the motorcycle on the center stand, Warm up the engine for several minutes.

NOTE:
Be sure the motorcycle is positioned straight up when checking the oil level; a slight tilt toward the side can produce false readings.

b. With the engine stopped, check the oil level through the level window located at the lower part of the right side crank-case cover.

NOTE:
Wait a few minutes until the oil level settles before checking.

1. Maximum mark 2- Minimum mark 3. Level window

c. The oil level should be between maximum and minimum marks. If the level is lower add sufficient oil to raise it to the proper level.

2. Engine oil and oil filter replacement

a.   Start the engine and stop it after a few minutes of warm-up.

b.   Place an oil pan under the engine and remove the oil filler cap.

c.   Remove the engine drain plug and drain the oil.

1. Engine drain plug

d. Remove the oil filter bolt and filter element.

1. Oil filter cover

e. Re-install the drain plug (make sure it is tight).

Drain plug torque: 4.3 m-kg (31.0 ft-lb)

f. Install the new oil filter element, new "O-ring" and filter cover, and tighten the oil filter bolt.

Oil filter bolt torque: 1.5 m-kg (11.0 ft-lb)

NOTE:
When installing the filter cover, make sure the "O-ring" is positioned properly and insert the locating projection on it into the corresponding guides on the crankcase.

1. Proper O-ring position

g. Add oil through the oil filler hole.

CAUTION:
Take care not to allow foreign material to enter the crankcase.

Periodic oil change: 2.2 lit (2.3 US qt.)

With oil filler replacement: 2.5 lit (2.6 US qt.)

Recommended oil:

h. After replacement of the engine oil and/ or oil filter, be sure to check for oil leakage. The oil level indicator light should go off after the engine has started.

CAUTION:
If the indicator light flickers or remains on, the oil level switch may be damaged. Refer to "CHAPTER 6" for corrective action.

1. Ignition timing is checked with a timing light by observing the position of the stationary pointer and the marks stamped on the timing plate.

The timing plate is marked as follows:

"n"— Firing range for No. 1 (L.H.) cylinder

"T" ....Top Dead Center for No. 1 (L.H.) and No. 4 (R.H.) cylinders.

2.    Connect the timing light to No. 1 (L.H.) spark plug lead wire.

3.   Start the engine and keep the engine speed as specified. Use a tachometer to check the engine speed.

Specified engine speed: 1,200 r/min

4. The stationary pointer should be within the limits of " n " on the timing plate. If it exceeds the limits or does not steady, check the timing plate for tightness and/or ignition system for damage. (See "CHAPTER 6. ELECTRICAL)

CAUTION:
Never bend the stationary pointer.

A. Valve clearance adjustment

NOTE:
Valve clearance must be measured with the engine and at room temperature.

1.    Open the seat and remove the fuel tank.

2.    Remove the flasher relay and spark plug lead wires.

Remove the cylinder head cover and left crankcase cover (pick-up base cover). Care should be taken to not scratch or damage the gasket sealing surfaces. Turn the crankshaft with the nut on the left end of the crankshaft to turn the cams. The proper position of the cam when measuring the valve clearance is with the cam lobe directly opposite the valve lifter,

5. Insert a feeler gauge between the valve lifter and the camshaft base circle.

Intake valve clearance (cold):

0.11-0.15 mm (0.004-0.006in)

Exhaust valve clearance (cold):

0.16-0.20 mm (0.006-0.008 in)

Adjustment

Valve clearance is adjusted by replacing the adjusting pad on the top of the valve lifter. Adjusting pads are available in 25 thicknesses ranging from No. 200 (2.00 mm) to No. 320 (3.20 mm) in steps of 0.05 mm. The thickness of each pad is marked on the pad face that contacts the valve lifter (not the cam). Adjustment of the valve clearance is accomplished as follows:

1.    Determine valve clearance (feeler gauge measurement.)

2.    Remove adjusting pad and note number.

3.   Selectproper pad from appropriate chart (intake or exhaust chart).

4.    Install new pad and check installed clearance.

Procedure

1. Measure valve clearance. If clearance is incorrect, record the measured amount of clearance. This must be measured carefully.

2.   There is a slot in the valve lifter. This slot must be positioned opposite the blade of the tappet adjusting tool before the tool is installed.

3.   Turn the cam until the lobe fully depresses the valve lifter and opens the valve. Install the tappet adjusting tool as shown tohold the lifter in this depressed position.

NOTE:
The tappet adjusting tool is fastened to the cylinder head securely using an alien screw. Make sure that the tool contacts the lifter only, and not the pad.

CAUTION:
If the cam lobe touches the tappet adjusting tool, the stress may fracture the cylinder head. DO NOT ALLOW THE CAM LOBE TO CONTACT THE TAPPET ADJUSTING TOOL.

1. Tappet adjusting tool              2. Adjusting pad

4. Carefully rotate the cam so that the pad can be removed. To avoid cam touching the adjusting tool, turn cams as follows: (view from left side of the motorcycle) Intake: Carefully rotate CLOCKWISE. Exhaust: Carefully rotate COUNTERCLOCKWISE.

5. Remove the pad from the lifter. There is a slot in the lifter. Use a small xrew-driver or other blade and tweezers or a magnetic rod to remove the pad. Note the number on the pad.

1. Adjusting pad

6  Proper pad selection is made as follows:

Chart lookup method:

Refer to the appropriate chart for exhaust or intake valves:

0.11 to 0.15mm required clearance (Intake side) chart

0.15 to 0.20mm required clearance (Exhaust side) chart

a.   Find number of original (installed) pad number on chart. Read down on chart.

b.   Find measured valve clearance (from step 1) on chart. Read across.

c.   At the intersection of installed pad number (down) and measured clearance (across) is a new pad number.

EXAMPLE:

Intake valve, installed pad: No. 250 (read down)
Measured clearance:0.32 mm (read across)
New pad number: No. 270(intersection of down & across)

Alternate shim calculation method:

Since all shims come in .05mm (.002") increments, you can quickly calculate the required size without a chart.

If the measured clearance is within 0.05mm (0.002") of the required clearance, then no change is needed.

If the measured clearance greater than 0.05mm (0.002") but 0.10mm (0.004") or less different than the required clearance then the next size shim is required.

If the measured clearance greater than 0.10mm (0.004") but 0.15mm (0.006") or less different than the required clearance then the next size shim is required.

Clearances that are too small require thinner shims. Clearances that are too large require thicker shims.

Example: Required exhaust valve clearance is 0.16~0.20mm. Measured clearance is 0.12mm (gap too small). Installed shim is Y270. Required shim is one size thinner: Y265.

NOTE:
The new pad number is to be used as a guide only. Verify the correctness of this choice in the following step(s).

7.    Install the new pad in the lifter. Install the pad with the number down.

8.    Remove tappet adjusting tool,

9.   Turn crankshaft to rotate cam several rotations. This will set the pad in the lifter.

10.   Check valve clearance (step 3). If clearance is incorrect, repeat preceding steps until proper clearance is obtained.

11.    Inspect head cover gasket. If bent or torn, replace gasket.

12.    Reinstall removed parts in reverse order.

Alternate shim calculation method:

Since all shims come in .05mm (.002") increments, you can quickly calculate the required size without a chart.

If the measured clearance is within 0.05mm (0.002") of the required clearance, then no change is needed.

If the measured clearance greater than 0.05mm (0.002") but 0.10mm (0.004") or less different than the required clearance then the next size shim is required.

If the measured clearance greater than 0.10mm (0.004") but 0.15mm (0.006") or less different than the required clearance then the next size shim is required.

Clearances that are too small require thinner shims. Clearances that are too large require thicker shims.

Example: Required exhaust valve clearance is 0.16~0.20mm. Measured clearance is 0.12mm (gap too small). Installed shim is Y270. Required shim is one size thinner: Y265.

1.    Remove the cylinder head cover.

2.    Remove the left crankcase cover (pickup coil cover).

3.    Remove the cam chain tensioner.

Use a 19 mm wrench on the timing plate flats to rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the engine is at T.D.C.

CAUTION:
Never use an alien wrench to rotate the crankshaft. Always use the 19 mm flats provided on the timing plate to rotate this engine.

5. Remove the center cam shaft caps. Next, remove the four cam sprocket bolts.

6. Slip each sprocket off its mounting boss on the cam.

CAUTION:
From this point on, do not rotate the cam shaft or valve damage may occur. On this, it is not necessary to break the cam chain. However, it can be broken if so desired. It is easier to disassemble the engine without separating the chain.

7. Remove the cam chain guide.

1. Cam chain guide

8. Remove the cam caps. Note the location of the cam caps. The caps for the intake camshaft are identified 1-1 through I-4. The exhaust cam caps are identified E-1 through E-4. Directional arrows are cast on each cap and point toward the clutch side.

9. Fasten safety wire to the cam chain to prevent itsfalling into the crankcase cavity.

Slide the cams and sprockets from under the chain andremove the cams and sprockets.

10. Remove the cam chain guide securing boltand lock nut. Remove the front cam chain guide.

1. Lock washer 2. Front cam chain guide

11.    Remove the spark plugs.

12.    Remove the cylinder head bolts and nuts in the numerical order as shown. Start by loosening each nut 1/2 turn until all of the nuts are loose. Remove the cylinder head.

13. Remove the front cylinder holding nut and remove the cylinder assembly. It may be necessary to tap the cylinder lightly to loosen it from the base gasket.

14. Remove the rear cam chain guide by loosening the holding bolt.

1. Holding bolt 2. Rear cam chain guide

Cylinder head disassembly

1. Remove the valve lifters and pads. Be careful not to scratch the lifter bodies or lifter bores in the cylinder head. Be very careful to identify each lifters position so that it may be returned to its original place.

1. Valve filter 2. Adjusting pad

2.    Mount the valve spring compressor on the head and depress each valve spring. Take out the retainer and valve spring with tweezers.

1. Valve spring compressor

3. Remove valves.

NOTE:
Deburr any deformed valve stem end. Use an oil stone to smooth the stem end. This will help prevent damage to the valve guide during valve removal.

4. Use a small box to hold the parts and identify the original position of each lifter and valve. Be very careful not to mix the location of these components.

C. Piston

1.    Make each piston to aid in reassembly.

2.    Place a clean towel or rag into the crank-case to keep circlips and material from falling into the engine.

3. Remove piston pin clips, piston pins, and pistons.

Pick-up coil assembly

1. Remove the alien bolt that holds the timing plate.

2. Remove the pick-up coil securing screws and remove the pick-up coil assembly.

Generator and starter motor

1. Remove the generator cover and stator coil assembly.

2. Install the rotor holding tool (special tool) on the rotor as shown and remove the rotor holding bolt.

1. Rotor holding tool

3. Install the holding tool as shown and insert the rotor puller adapter (special tool) into the rotor shaft and screw in the rotor puller (special tool). Remove the rotor.

4. Remove the starter motor securing bolts and remove the motor assembly,

Clutch

1. Remove right crankcase cover.

2. Release the tension evenly on the 6 mm bolts and remove the clutch pressure plate and clutch springs.

3.    Remove the friction plates and clutch plates.

4.    Straighten the lock washer tab. Use the clutch boss holder (special tool) to hold the clutch boss and remove the lock nut and lock washer.

1. Clutch boss holder

5.    Remove the clutch boss and thrust plate.

6.    Remove the primary driven gear assembly.

7. Remove the primary drive gear and collar.

Oil pump removal and disassembly

1. Remove the oil pump driven sprocket.

2. Remove the oil pump securing screws and remove the oil pump assembly.

3. Remove the shift lever assembly.

1. Shift lever assembly

4. Remove the strainer cover. Note the wire harness clip position.

5. Remove the strainer screen, strainer housing and the relief valve.

CAUTION:
Do not attempt to remove the strainer screen as it is permanently fitted onto the pump housing. If the pump housing and/or any parts of the pump are damaged, the pump assembly must be replaced with a new one.

6.    Remove the oil pump cover and rotor assembly.

7.    Remove the pressure relief valve spring and plunger.

Crankcase disassembly

1.    Remove the right-front crankcase cover.

2.    Remove the upper crankcase bolts, starting the highest numbered bolt.

Turn over the engine and remove the lower crankcase bolts.

CRANKCASE TIGHTENING SEQUENCE

LOWERCASE

UPPERCASE

*6 mm

3. Separate the lower case from the engine. Use a soft rubber hammer to carefully separate the crankcase.

I. Upper crankcase

1. Remove the transmission assembly.

2. Remove the A.C.G. shaft cover.

3. Remove the oil spray nozzle.

4. Carefully remove the A.C.G. shaft from the gear.

5. Remove the gear from the chain.

6. Straighten the lock washer tab and remove the bolt securing the starter idle gear shaft. Remove the shaft and starter idle gear.

J. Lower crankcase

1.    Remove the dowel pin and "O-ring".

2.    Remove the shift bar stopper securing screw and bolt.

3. Remove the shift fork guide bar and shift forks. The shift forks are identified by numbers cast on their sides.

4.    Remove the neutral switch.

5.    Remove the bolt securing the shift cam locating pin and remove the stopper plate and locating pin.

1. Shift cam locating pin

6. Pull out the shift cam.

7. Remove the HY-VO chain tensioner and chain guide.

Cylinder head cover

Place head cover on a surface plate. There should be no warpage. Correct by re-surfacing as follows:

Place #400 or #600 grit wet sandpaper on surface plate and re-surface head cover using a figure-eight sanding pattern. Rotate head cover several times to avoid removing too much material from one side.

Cylinder head

1.    Using a rounded scraper, remove carbon deposits from combustion chamber. Take care to avoid damaging spark plug threads and valve seats. Do not use a sharp instrument. Avoid scratching the aluminum.

2.    Check the cylinder head warpage with a straight edge as shown.

The warpage should not exceed the specified limit, if necessary resurface. If the warpage exceeds allowable limit, the cylinder head should be replaced with a new one.

Cylinder head warpage: less than 0.05 mm (0.002 in)

Allowable limit: 0.25 mm (0.010 in)

1. Camshaft

a.   The cam lobe metal surface may have a blue discoloration due to excessive friction. The metal surface could also start to flake off or become pitted.

b.   If any of the above wear conditions are readily visible, the camshaft should be replaced.

c.   Even though the cam lobe surface appears to be in satisfactory condition, the lobes should be measured with a micrometer. Cam lobe wear can occur without scarring the surface. If this wear exceeds a pre-determined amount, valve timing and lift are affected. Replace the camshaft if wear exceeds the limits.

d. Install the camshaft on the cylinder head. Place a strip of Plastigage between camshaft and camshaft cap as illustrated (lengthwise along camshaft). Tighten the nuts with specified torque. Remove the camshaft cap and determine the clearance by measuring the width of the flattened Plastigage.

1. Plastigage

NOTE:
Do not turn camshaft when measuring clearance with Plastigage.

Camshaft-to-cap clearance:

Standard: 0.020 ~ 0.054 mm (0.0008-0.0021 in)

Maximum: 0.160 mm (0.006 in)

If the camshaft-to-cap clearance exceeds specification, measure camshaft bearing surface diameter.

Bearing surface diameter:

Standard: 24.967 ~ 24.980 mm (0.9830- 0.9835 in)

1)   If camshaft diameter is less than specification, causing excessive clearance, replace camshaft.

2)   If camshaft is within specification and camshaft-to-cap clearance is excessive, replace cylinder head.

2.    Cam chain

Except in cases of oil starvation, the cam chain wears very little. If the cam chain has stretched excessively and it is difficult to keep the proper cam chain tension, the chain should be replaced.

3.    Cam sprockets

Check cam sprockets for obvious wear.

4. Cam chain dampers and tensioner

Inspect the top cam chain damper (stopper guide) and two (2) vertical (slipper-type) dampers for excessive wear. Any that shows excessive wear should be replaced. Worn dampers may indicate an improperly adjusted or worn-out cam chain.

F. Cylinder

1.    Inspect the cylinder walls for scratches. If vertical scratches are evident, the cylinder wall should be rebored or the cylinder should be replaced.

2.    Measure cylinder wall wear as shown. If wear is excessive, compression pressure will decrease. Rebore the cylinder wall and replace the piston and piston rings. Cylinder wear should be measured at three depths with a cylinder bore gauge. (See illustration.)

Cap nut tightening torque: 1.0nvkg(7.2ft-ib)

If the cylinder wall is worn more than the wear limit, it should be rebored.

Valve, valve guide, and valve seat

1. Check the valve face and the stem end for wear. If the valve face and/or the stem end are pitted or worn, regrind the valve with a valve refacer. Replace the valve if any dimension exceeds the specifications in the illustration.

Intake/Exhaust valve

Minimum thickness (Service limit) 0.7 mm (0.028

Minimum length (Service limit) 4.0 mm (0.157 in)

2. Valve stem wear must be measured and then combined with valve guide measurements to guide clearance. This clearance must be within tolerances. If it exceeds the maximum limit, then replace either or both valve and guide, as necessary.

3.    Valve stem end

Inspect the end of the valve stem. If the end appears to be "mushroomed" or has a larger diameter than the rest of the stem, the valve, valve guide, and oil seal should be replaced.

4.    Turn valve on "V" blocks and measure the amount of stem runout with a dial guage. If it exceeds the maximum limit, replace the valve.

Maximum valve stem runout: 0.03 mm (0.0012 in)

5. Valve guide and valve oil seal replacement If oil leaks into the cylinder through a valve due to a worn valve guide, or if a valve is replaced, the valve guide should also be replaced.

NOTE:
The valve oil seal should be replaced whenever a valve is removed or replaced.

a. Measure valve guide inside diameter with a small bore gauge. If it exceeds the limit, replace with an oversize valve guide.

Guide diameter (I.D.):  Limit: 6.10 mm (0.240 in!

b.  To ease guide removal and reinstallation, and to maintain the correct interference fit, heat the head to 100°C (212°F). Use an oven to avoid any possibility of head warpage due to uneven heating.

c.   Use the appropriate shouldered punch (special tool) to drive the old guide out and drive the new guide in,

NOTE:
When a valve guide is replaced, the O-ring should also be replaced.

1. Valve guide installer

d. After installing the valve guide, use the 6 mm reamer (special tool) to obtain the proper valve guide to valve stem clearance.

e. After installing the valve guide in the cylinder head, the valve seat must be recut. The valve should be lapped to the new seat.

6. Grinding the Valve Seat

a. The valve seat is subject to severe wear. Whenever the valve is replaced or the

valve face is re-surfaced (see caution) The valve seat should be re-surfaced at a 45° angle. If a new vlave guide has been installed the valve seat must be recut to guarantee complete sealing between the valve face and seat.

CAUTION:
If the valve seat is obviously pitted or worn, it should be cleaned with a valve seat cutter. Use the 45° cutter, and when twisting the cutter, keep an even downward pressure to prevent chatter marks.

If cutting section "A" of the valve seat, use 30° cutter. If cutting section "B", use the 45° cutter. If cutting section "C" use 60° cutter. b. Measure valve seat width. Apply mechanic's bluing dye (such as Dykem) to the valve face and valve seat, apply a very small amount of fine grinding compound around the surface of the valve face insert the valve into position, and spin the valve quickly back and forth. Lift the valve, clean off all grinding compound, and check valve seat width. The valve seat and valve face will have removed bluing wherever they contacted each other. Measure the seat width with vernier calipers. It should measure approximately 1.1 mm (0.0433 in). Also, the seat should be uniform in contact area. If valve seat width varies, or if pits still exist, further cutting will be necessary. Remove just enough material to achieve a satisfactory seat.

1. Valve guide remover

a. Seat width

c. If the valve seat is uniform around the perimeter of the valve face, but is too wide or not centered on the valve face, it must be altered. Use either the 30°, 45° or 60° cutters to correct the improper seat location in the manner described

1) If the valve face shows that the valve seat is centered on the valve face, but too wide, then lightly use both the 30° and the 60° cutters to reduce the seat width to 1.1 mm (0.0433 in).

1. Valve seat cutter

2)   If the seat shows to be in the middle of the valve face, but too narrow, use the 45° cutter until the width equals 1.1 mm (0.0433 in).

3)   If the seat istoo narrow and right up near the valve margin, then first use the 30° cutter and then the 45° cutter to get the correct seat width.

4)   If the seat is too narrow and down near the bottom edge of the valve face, then first use the 60° cutter and then the 45° cutter.

7. Lapping the valve/valve seat assembly

a.   The valve/valve seat assembly should be lapped if neither the seat nor the valve face are severely worn.

b.  Apply a small amount of coarse lapping compound to valve face. Insert the valve into the head. Rotate the valve until the valve and valve seat are evenly polished. Clean off the coarse compound, then follow the same procedure with fine compound.

Continue lapping until the valve face shows a complete and smooth surface all the way around. Clean off the compound material. Apply bluing dye to the valve face and seat and rotate the valve face for full seat contact which is indicated by a grey surface all around the valve face where the bluing has been rubbed awav.

Valve leakage check

After all work has been performed on the valve and valve seat, and all head parts have been assembled, check for proper valve/valve seat sealing by pouring solvent into each of the intake ports, then the exhaust ports. There should be no leakage past the seat. If fluid leaks, disassemble and continue to lap with fine lapping compound. Clean all parts thoroughly, reassemble and check again with solvent. Repeat this procedure as often as necessary to obtain a satisfactory seal.

1. Checking the valve springs

a.   This engine uses two springs of different sizes to prevent valve float or surging. The valve spring specifications show the basic value characteristics.

b.   Even though the spring is constructed of durable spring steel, it gradually loses some of it's tension. This is evidenced by a gradual shortening of free length. Use a vernier caliper to measure spring free length. If the free length of any spring has decreased more than 2 mm (0.080 in) from its specification replace it.

c. Another symptom of a fatigued spring is insufficient spring pressure when compressed. This can be checked using a valve spring compression rate gauge. Test each spring individually. Place it in the gauge and compress the spring first to the specified compressed length with the valve closed (all spring specifications can be found in the previous section, Valve Spring), then to the length with the valve open. Note the poundage indicated on the scale at each setting. Use this procedure with the outer springs, then the inner springs.

NOTE:
All valve springs must be installed with larger pitch upward as shown.

2. Valve lifter

a. Check each valve lifter for scratches or other damage. If the lifter is damaged in any way, the cylinder head surface in which it rides is probably also damaged. If the damage is severe, it may be necessary to replace both the lifter and the cylinder head.

NOTE:
For proper valve lifter-to-head clearance, always install lifters on their original valves.

Piston

a. Measure the outside diameter of the piston at the piston skirt. Measurement should be made at a point 7.5 mm (0.3 in) above the bottom edge of the piston. Place the micrometer at right angles to the piston pin.

a. 7.0 mm (0.28 in)

b. Determine piston clearance as follows:

Minimum bore measurement - Maximum piston measurement = Piston clearance

EXAMPLE:

57.00 mm (2.2440 in) - 56.96 mm (2.2424 in) = 0.04 mm (0.0016 in)

Piston clearance

c. Piston ring/ring groove fit must have correct clearance. If the piston and ring have already been used, the ring must be removed and the ring groove cleaned of carbon. The ring should then be reinstalled. Use a feeler gauge to measure the gap between the ring and the land.

1.  Feeler gauge

Piston ring

a. The oversize top and middle ring sizes are stamped on top of the ring.

b. The expander spacer of the bottom ring (oil control ring) is color-coded to identify sizes.

The color mark is painted on the expander spacer.

c. Push the ring into the bore and check end gap clearance with a feeler gauge.

NOTE:
The end gap on the expander spacer of the oil control ring is unmeasurable. If the oil control ring rails show excessive gap, all three components should be replaced.

Piston pin

1.    Apply a light film of oil to pin. Install in connecting rod small end. Check for play. There should be no noticeable vertical play. If play exists, check connecting rod small end for wear. Replace pin and connecting rod as required.

2.    The piston pin should have no noticeable free play in piston. If the piston pin is loose, replace the pin and/or the piston.

1. Crankshaft run-out

Support the crankshaft at both ends on V-blocks. Measure the amount of crankshaft run-out on the main bearing journals with a dial gauge while rotating crankshaft.

Run-out limit: 0.03 mm (0.0012 in)

If run-out exceeds limit, replace crankshaft.

2.    Inspection of bearings

Check the bearings. If the inner or outer surface is burned,flaked, rough, scratched or worn, the bearings should be replaced.

3.    Measuring main bearing oil clearance

a.   Clean all crankshaft and crankcase journal surfaces.

b.  Place upper crankcase half upside-down on a bench. Install bearing inserts into top crankcase.

c.   Install crankshaft into upper crankcase.

d.  Place Plastigage on crankshaft journal surface to be inspected.

NOTE:
Do not move crankshaft until clearance check has been completed.

e.   Install bearings into bottom crankcase. Carefully, place lower crankcase onto upper crankcase.

f.    Install crankcase holding bolts 1 through 10. Tighten to full torque in torque sequence cast on crankcase.

Crankcase torque (8 mm bolt): 2.4 m-kg (17.5 ft-lb)

g. Remove bolts in reverse assembly order (10, 9, 8...etc.)

h. Carefully remove lower crankcase. Measure width of Plastigage on crankshaft journals to determine clearance.

Main bearing oil clearance: 0.040- 0.064 mm (0.0016- 0.0025 in)

1. Plasligage

4. Crankshaft main bearing and connecting rod bearing selection

a. Numbers used to indicate crankshaft journal sizes are stamped on the L.H. crankweb. The first five (5) are main bearing journal numbers, starting with the left journal. The four (4) rod bearing journal numbers follow in the same sequence.

The upper crankcase half is numbered 4, 5, or 6 as shown.

b. The connecting rods are numbered 4 or 5. The numbers for rods are stamped with ink on the rod itself.

1. Connecting rod size number

c. The proper bearing selection is made by subtracting the crankshaft journal number from the crankcase or rod size number. Use the color code to choose the proper bearing.

EXAMPLE:

Rod No. (Minus) Journal No. = Bearing No.

5-2 = 3 No. 3 bearing is Brown. Use Brown bearing inserts.

For crankshaft main bearing only.

d. When assembling, apply a liberal coat of motor oil to all bearing surfaces.

NOTE:
When applying final torque to the rod caps, observe the following procedures:

e. Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to connecting rod bolt threads. Apply torque evenly to both ends of the cap. While tightening, if a torque of 2.0 m-kg (14.5 ft-lb) or more is reached, DO NOT STOP tightening until final torque is reached. If tightening is interrupted between 2.0 m-kg and 2.5 m-kg, loosen the nut to less than 2.0 m-kg and start again. Tighten to full torque specification without pausing.

Oil pump

1. Check the clearance between housing and outer rotor.

Standard clearance:

0.09 ~ 0.15 mm (0.0035 ~ 0.0059 in)

2. Check the clearance between outer rotor and inner rotor.

Standard clearance: 0.03 ~ 0.09 mm (0.0012 ~ 0.0035 in)

3. Check the plunger for scrathces and wear.

Clutch

1. Clutch housing

a. Check the dogs on the clutch housing.

Look for cracks and signs of galling on

edges. If damage is moderate, deburr.

If severe, replace the clutch housing.

NOTE:
Galling on the friction plate dogs of the clutch housing will cause erratic clutch operation.

b. Check the clutch housing bearing for

damage. If damaged replace bearing. 2. Clutch boss

a.   The clutch boss contains a built-in damper beneath the first clutch plate (clutch plate 2). It is not normally necessary to remove the circlip and disassemble the built-in damper unless there is serious clutch chattering.

b.  Check splines on clutch boss for galling. If damage is slight to moderate, deburr; if it is severe, replace clutch boss.

NOTE:
Galling on clutch plate splines will cause erratic operation.

3. Friction and clutch plates

Check clutch steel plates and friction plates for heat damage. Measure friction plate thickness at 3 or 4 points. Measure clutch plates for warpage with a dial gauge and stand. Replace clutch plate or friction plates as a set if any is faulty or beyond wear limits.

1. Feeler gauge

4. Clutch actuating mechanism

1. Plate washer 2. Thrust bearing 3. Pull rod

a.   Check the pull rod rack gear teeth for wear and damage, replace if damaged.

b.  Check the pull rod thrust bearing for damage, replace if damaged.

c.   Check the clutch lever shaft pinion gear teeth for damage, replace if damaged.

5. Clutch springs

Measure the clutch spring free length. Replace the springs as a set if any is less than minimum free length.

Clutch spring minimum length: 40.2 mm (1.583 in)

Inspect each shift fork signs of galling on gear contact surfaces. Check for bending. Make sure each fork slides freely on its guide bar.

2.    Roll the guide bar across a surface place. If the bar is bent, replace.

3.    Check the shift cam grooves for signs of wear or damage. If any profile has excessive wear and/or damage, replace cam.

4.    Check the cam followers on each shift fork for wear. Check the ends that ride in the grooves in the shift cam. If they are worn or damaged, replace the shift forks.

5.    Check shift cam dowel pins and side plate for looseness, damage or wear. Replace as required.

6.    Check the shift cam stopper plate and circlip and stopper for wear. Replace as required.

7.    Check the transmission shafts using a centering device and dial gauge. If any shaft is bent beyond specified limit, replace shaft.

Maximum run-out: 0.08 mm (0.0031 in!

8.    Carefully inspect each gear. Look for signs of obvious heat damage (blue discoloration). Check the gear teeth for signs of pitting, galling or other extreme wear. Replace as required.

9.    Check to see that each gear moves freely on its shaft.

10.    Check to see that all washers and clips are properly installed and undamaged, Replace bent or loose clips and bent washers.

11.    Check to see that each gear properly engages its counterpart on the shaft. Check the mating dogs for rounded edges, cracks, or missing portions. Replace as required.

M. Starter drivers

Electric starter clutch and gears

a. Check the surface of the idle gear for pitting or other damage. If severe, replace the gear.

b. Check the spring caps and the springs for deformation or damage. If severe, replace as necessary.

c. Check the starter clutch bolts (alien screw) for looseness. If loose, remove the bolts and replace with new bolts.

Apply a thread locking compound such as "LOCTITE" to threads and tighten to specified torque. Stake over the end of the bolts.

Starter clutch bolt torque: 2.5m-kg (18.0 ft-lb)

d.  Check the "HY-VO" chain for damage and wear, replace if damaged.

e.   Check the "HY-VO" chain guide for damage, replace if damaged.

Crankcase and strainer cover

1.    Check crankcase for cracks or other damage.

2.    Clean all oil passages and blow out with compressed air.

3.    Strainer cover: Apply a thread locking compound such as "LOCTITE" to strainer cover bolts during reassembly.

Bearing and oil seals

1. After cleaning and lubricating bearings, rorate inner race with a finger. If rough spots are felt, replace the bearing.

NOTE:
Bearings are most easily removed or installed if the housings are first heated to approximately 95° - 125°C (200°- 250°F). Bring the case up to proper temperature slowly. Use an oven to avoid distortion.

2. Check oil seal lips for damage and wear. Replace as required.

1. Upper crankcase

a. Install the connecting rods onto the crankshaft with the proper connecting rod bearings and apply molybedenum disulfide grease to the bolt threads. Apply torque evenly to both ends of the cap.

CAUTION:
While tightening, if a torque of 2.0 m-kg (14.5 ft-lb) or more is reached, DO NOT STOP tightening until final torque is reached.
If tightening is interrupted between 2.0 m-kg and 2.5 m-kg, loosen the nut to less than 2.0 m-kg and start again. Tighten to full torque specification without pausing.

Rod cap torque: 2.5 m-kg (18.0 ft-lb)

b. Install the proper crankshaft main bearings into the crankcase and place the crankshaft. Oil the bearings liberaly.

NOTE:
Do not forget to install the crankshaft oil seal (L.H.), blind plug (R.H.), "HY-VO" chain and cam chain on the crankshaft before installing. Also, install the chain guide into upper crankcase if removed.

c. Install the starter idle gear, shaft, stopper plate, and new lock plate. Tighten the bolt securely, and bend the lock tabs along the bolt flats.

Tightening torque: 1.0 m-kg (7.2 ft-lb)

d. Put the starter clutch and sprocket assembly in the "HY-VO" chain and lay it into the crankcase.

e. Install the A.C.G. Generator shaft into the starter clutch assembly.

f. Install the "HY-VO" chain oil spray nozzle. Do not forget to install the new "O-ring" onto the nozzle.

g. Install the new "O-ring" onto the bearing housing and install it with the panhead screw.

2. Lower crankcase a. Install the shift cam and secure it with the guide pin. Install the stopper plate and bolt and tighten securely.

b.   Install the neutral switch.

c.   Install the shift forks and guide bar. Each shift fork is identified by a number cast on its side. All the numbers should face the left side and numbered 1, 2 and 3 from left.

d. Install the shift bar stopper securing screw and bolt.

e. Install the transmission assembly into the crankcase, Next, install the HY-VO chain tensioner and chain guide.

CAUTION:
When installing the crankcase, make sure the HY-VO chain tensioner is set in place with its plunger in the proper position; otherwise, a dislodged plunger will result in damage to various part after crankcase installation.

Crankcase assembly

a. Apply Yamaha bond # 4 sealant or equivalent to the crankcase mating surface. Be very careful not to allow any sealant to come in contact with the oil gallerly "O-ring" and crankshaft bearings. It is extremely important, however, that sealant be applied around the case stud holes. Apply sealant to within 2~3 mm (0.08 - 0.12 in) of the bearings.

CAUTION:
Failure to apply sealant here will result in reduced oil pressure and possible crank seizure.

1. 2-~ 3 mm (0.08 — 0.12 in) Do not apply sealant.

b. The crankcases are assembled by placing the upper case half on the bench and lowering the lower case onto it.

NOTE:
Be sure that shift fork No. 2 engages the groove in the 2nd pinion gear on the main axle.

CAUTION:
Before installing and torquing the crankcase bolts, check to make sure the transmission is functioning properly by shifting it by hand with the shift cam.

c.   Start installation of the crankcase bolts with the center crankshaft area bolts. Place the two bolts without washers in the oil filter area.

d.   The crankcase bolts should be torqued in proper sequence. Refer to the tightening sequence in the illustration.

e. Install the right-front crankcase cover. 4. Oil pump and strainer cover a. Install the relief valve, strainer housing and strainer screen.

Tightening torque: 1.0m-kg(7.2ft-lb)

b. Install the strainer cover and torque the bolts to the specification.

Tightening torque: 1.0m-kg(7.2ft-lb)

1. Wire clamps

c. Install the shift lever assembly with the positioning spring is properly located on the stopper pin.

d. Install the oil pump assembly and oil pump securing screws.

e. Install the oil pump driven sprocket.

a. Install the pistons on the rods. The arrow on the piston must point to the front of the engine.

NOTE:
Before installing the piston pin clips, cover the crankcase with a clean rag so you will not accidentally drop the circlip into the crankcase. Always install new piston pin circlips.

b. Install the rear chain guide on its pivot. Tighten the holding bolt until it stops and then loosen 1/4 turn and then tighten the lock nut.

1. Holding bolt 2. Rear chain guide

c. Install the new cylinder base gasket and dowel pins. Install the new "O-rings" to the right side dowel pins.

d. Set the crankshaft so that the all pistons are equal height and align the piston rings as shown.

CAUTION;
Make sure the ends of the oil ring expanders are not overlapped.

NOTE:
Manufacturer's marks or numbers stamped on the rings are on the top side of the rings. Coat the pistons and rings well with oil.

e. Install the piston ring compressors (special tool) and piston bases (special tool). Four piston bases are required.

1. Piston bases 2. Piston ring compressors

f. Tie the cam chain with a piece of mechanic's wire and feed it through the chain opening. Carefully lower the cylinder onto the pistons. Remove the ring compressors and piston bases and repeat this procedure for pistons 1 and 4.

g. Install the cylinder securing nut (front side) and tighten it to the specification.

Tightening torque: 2.0 m-kg (14.5 ft-lb)

h. Set the dial guage on the No. 1 piston head center as shown to find the No. 1 piston top dead center and check whether the "T" mark on the timing plate and stationary pointer are aligned or not, If not, loosen the pointer securing screw and adjust.

Generator

a. Install the rotor onto the shaft and tighten the bolt using the rotor holding tool (special tool) as shown.

1. Rotor holding tool

Tightening torque: 3.5 m-kg (25.5 ft-lb)

b. Install the stator coil assembly onto the crankcase and align the grooves on the stator core with the bolt holes on the crankcase.

c. Install the A.C.G. cover assembly and tighten the bolts to the specification. Do not forget to install the new gasket.

Tightening torque: 1.0m-kg(7.2ft-lb)

Starter motor

a.   Route the A.C.G. lead wires as shown.

b.   Install the starter motor and tighten the bolts to the specification.

Tightening torque: 1.0m-kg (7.2fMb)

NOTE:
Be careful the "O-ring" is not damaged when installing the starter motor.

Pick-up coil assembly

a.   Install the pick-up coil assembly onto the crankcase.

b.   Install the timing plate on the crankshaft and tighten the bolt to the specification.

NOTE:
Note that there is the locating pin on the crankshaft and the corresponding slot in the timing plate which must be aligned to install the timing plate.

1.   Clamp
2.   To side stand switch
3.   Band
4.   Side stand switch lead wire
5.   Pick up coil and lead wire
6.   A.C Generator lead wire

Clutch assembly

a. Install the primary drive gear and collar.

Tightening torque: 5.0 m-kg (36.0 ft-lb)

b- Install the primary driven gear assembly.

c. Install the clutch boss and thrust plate.

d. Install a new lock washer and nut and tighten the nut to the specified torque. Use the clutch boss holder (special tool).

Tightening torque: 7.0 m-kg (50.5 ft-lb)

1. Clutch boss holder

e.   Bend the lock washer tabs along the nut flats.

f.    Install the clutch plates and friction plates alternately on the clutch boss, starting with a friction plate and ending with a friction plate.

1. Third friction plate 2. Clutch boss spring

g. Install the plate washer, thrust bearing, and clutch pull rod into the clutch pressure plate from inside.

1. Pull rod 2. Thrust bearing 3. Plate washer

h. Install the pressure plate assembly onto the clutch boss.

NOTE:
Pressure plate has a dot on it which must line up with the dot on clutch boss.

i. Install the clutch springs and screws. Tighten the screws.

Clutch screw torque: 0.8m-kg(5.8ft-lb)

j. Set the gear of the clutch pull rod on the pressure plate facing approximately 90° from horizontal toward the rear; set the clutch lever (if installed) on the right crankcase cover parallel to the gasket surface and install the cover to the crankcase. Do not forget to install two dowel pins.

k. If the clutch lever has been removed, install the lever return spring and lever on the shaft after installing the right crankcase cover. In this case make sure that the punch mark on the lever should align with the mark on the crankcase cover when pushing the lever towards the front by hand and then install the circlip.

a. Install the new cylinder head gasket. Install the dowel pins and "o-rings".

b.   Install the cylinder head onto the cylinder. Pull the cam chain through the cylinder head as it is installed. Tie the cam chain so that it does not fall into the crankcase.

c.   Place the upper cylinder head nuts and washers in place. Follow the illustration for the proper tightening sequence. Torque all nuts in two stages and final torque the upper nuts to the specification.

Tightening torque: 2.0 m-kg (14.5 ft-lb)

Don't forget the lower nuts on the front and rear of the cylinder head. Torque to the specification.

Tightening torque: 1.0 m-kg (7.2 ft-lb)

1. Copper washers

NOTE
Tighten the nuts in two stages, 1/2 torque value and then full torque value. Also lubricate the bolt threads with the engine oil to achieve proper torque values.

d. Install the front cam chain guide being certain that it is in its holder down below.

1. Lock washer 2. Front cam chain guide

e. Rotate the engine in a counterclockwise direction until the crankcase pointer and "T" mark on the timing plate are aligned.

f.   With the cylinder No. 1 and 4 at the top dead center, slip the cam chain over the sprocket.

g.   Lubricate at! cam caps and cam bearings surfaces liberally with oil.

h. Place the cam caps in their proper positions. The caps are identified "1-1" through "I-4" for intake and "E-1" through "E-4" for exhaust. Install the bolts only finger tight.

CAUTION:
The cam caps must be tightened evenly or damage to the cylinder head, cam caps and cam will result. The spaces between the caps and cylinder head should be equal.

i. Torque the cam cap bolts in two stages and final torque to specification.

Tightening torque: 1.0 m-kg (7.2 ft-lb)

a. Rotate each cam shaft until the dot on the cam is aligned with the arrow on the center cam cap.

CAUTION:
Use extreme caution when rotating the cams. Two possible dangers exist. First, the wrench may contact the head and fracture it. Or second, a valve may become bent if the cam is turned the wrong way.

b.  Carefully lift the cam chain from the exhaust cam sprocket and pull upward to remove any slack in the chain between the crankshaft and the exhaust cam sprocket. With all slack removed, place the chain back on the cam sprocket.

c.   Grip each sprocket simultaneously and place them on the camshaft shoulders while continuing to keep tension on the chain from the crankshaft to the exhaust sprocket.

CAUTION:
Use only the special hardened shouldered bolts to install the cam chain sprockets to the cams.

Make sure the rollers of the cam chain are centered on both chain guides.

d. Rotate the sprockets slightly to align the bolt holes and insert one special bolt in each sprocket.

NOTE:
Tighten only finger tight at this time.

e. Install the center chain guide.

1. Cam chain guide

f. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise and align the "C" mark on the timing plate with the timing pointer.

g. Compress the cam chain tensioner and lock in the retracted position.

h. Install the chain tensioner to the engine and torque the bolts to the specification.

Tightening torque: 1.0 m-kg (7.2 ft-lb)

L Release the tensioner holding bolt, an audible click will be heard when the tensioner is released.

j. Torque the holding bolt and the lock nut to the specifications.

Holding bolt torque: 0.6 m-kg (4.3 ft-lb)

Lock nut torque: 0.9 m-kg (6.5 ft-lb)

k. Rotate the crankshaft more than one full revolution and align the "T" mark on the timing plate with the timing pointer. With the crankshaft at the "T" mark, the dots on the cams should be aligned with the raised arrows on the center cam caps. If they are not aligned, disassemble the sprockets and chain tensioner and repeat above procedures.

I. Rotate the crankshaft and install the two remaining shoulder bolts into the cam sprockets. Torque all four sprocket holding bolts to the specification.

CAUTION:
Be sure to attain the specified torque value to avoid the possibility of these bolts coming loose and causing serious damage to the engine.

Tightening torque: 2.0 m-kg (14.5 ft-lb)

m. Adjust all valves as described in the "PERIODIC INSPECTIONS AND ADJUSTMENTS".

n. Install the cylinder head cover with a new gasket.

o. Install the left crankcase covers. The left crankcase cover (pick-up coil cover) is required a gasket.