Chapter 5, CHASSIS

Chapter 5, CHASSIS
xjcdadmin Wed, 05/19/2010 - 13:20


xjcdadmin Wed, 05/19/2010 - 13:20




1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand.

2.    Remove the front fender securing bolts and remove the fender.

3. Remove the cotter pin and wheel axle nut.

Remove the speedometer cable holder securing bolt.

1. Pinch bolt

5. Loosen the pinch bolt securing the axle.

6. Remove the axle shaft and the front wheel. In this case, make sure the motorcycle is properly supported.


Do not depress the brake lever when the wheel is off the motorcycle as the brake pads will be forced to shut.

7. Lower the wheel until the brake discs come off the calipers. Turn the calipers outward so they do not obstruct the wheel and remove the wheel.

B.   Front Axle Inspection

Remove any corrosion from the axle with fine emery cloth. Place the axle on a surface plate and check for bends. If bent, replace axle. Do not attempt to straighten a bent axle.

C.   Front Wheel Inspection

This motorcycle is equipped with aluminum wheels designed to be compatible with either tube or tubeless tires.

Tubeless tires are installed as standard equipment.


Do not attempt to use tubeless tires on a wheel designed for use only with tube-type tires. Tire failure and personal injury may results from sudden deflation.


Tube-type Wheel >

Tube-type Tires Only


Tubeless-type Wheel >

Tube-type or 
Tubeless tires




When using tube-type tires, be sure to install the proper tube also.

Refer to 'Tubeless Tire and Aluminum Wheel Manual" for the proper tubeless and aluminum wheel servicing.

1.    Check for cracks, bends or warpage of wheels. If a wheel is deformed or cracked, it must be replaced.

2.    Check wheel run-out. If the deflection exceeds the tolerance below, check the wheel bearings or replace the wheel as required.

Rim-run-out limits:


- 2 mm (0.079 in)


- 2 mm (0.079 in)

3.    Check wheel balance. Rotate the wheel lightly several times and observe resting position. If the wheel is not statically balanced, it will come to reset at the same position each time. Install an appropriate balance weight at lightest position (at top).


The wheel should be balanced with the brake disc installed.

4.    After installing a tire, ride conservatively to allow the tire to seat itself on the rim properly. Failure to allow proper seating may cause tire failure resulting in damage to the motorcycle and injury to the rider.

5.    After repairing or replacing a tire, check to be sure the valve stem lock nut is securely fastened. If not, torque it as specified.

Tightening torque: 0.15 m-kg (1.1 ft-lb) !

D. Replacing Wheel Bearings

If the bearings allow play in the wheel hub or if wheel does not turn smoothly, replace the bearings as follows:

1.    Clean the outside of the wheel hub.

2.    Drive the bearing out by pushing the spacer aside and tapping around the perimeter of the bearing inner race with a soft metal drift pin and hammer. The spacer "floats" between the bearings. Both bearings can be removed in this manner.


Eye protection is recommended when using striking tools.

3.  To install the wheel bearing, reverse the above sequence. Use a socket that matches the outside race of the bearing as a tool to drive in the bearing.


Do not strike the center race or balls of the bearing. Contact should be made only with the outer race.

. For reassembly, follow the procedure below with case;

a.   Install the speedometer cable holder securing bolt.

b.   Make sure the projecting portion (torque stopper) of the speedometer housing is positioned correctly.

1. Torque stopper

c. Tighten the axle nut and install a new cotter pin.

Axle nut torque: 10.7 m-kg (77.5 ft-lb)

d.   Install the front fender.

e.   Before tightening the pinch bolt, compress the front forks several times to make sure of proper fork operation. With the axle pinch bolt loose, work the right fork leg back and forth until the proper clearance between the disc and caliper bracket on the front is obtained.

f. Tighten the axle pinch bolt.

Axle pinch bolt torque:2.0 m-kg (14.5 ft-lb)


A. Removal

1.    Place the motorcycle on the center stand.

2.    Remove the tension bar and the brake rod from the brake shoe plate. The tension bar can be removed by removing the cotter pin and nut from the tension bar bolt. The brake rod can be removed by removing the adjuster.

1. Adjuster     2. Tension bar     3. Brake rod

3. Remove the axle nut cotter pin and axle nut.

4. Loosen the rear axle pinch bolt and pull out the rear axle.

1. Pinch bolt

5. Move the wheel to the right side to separate it from the final gear cases and remove the rear wheel.



xjcdadmin Wed, 05/19/2010 - 13:20

(Note: see previous section "Wheels" for removal of wheels)

B. Checking Brake Shoe Wear

1. Measure the outside diameter at the brake shoes with slide calipers.

Front brake shoe diameter 180 mm (7.09 in)
Replacement limit: 176 mm min. (6.93 in)

a. Measuring points

2. Remove any glazed areas from the brake shoes using coarse sand paper.

C.   Brake Drum

Oil or scratches on the inner surface or the brake drum will impair braking performance or result in abnormal noises.

Remove oil by wiping with a rag soaked in lacquer thinner or solvent.

Remove scratches by lightly and evenly polishing with emery cloth.

D.  Brake Shoe Plate

Remove the camshaft and grease. If the cam face is worn, replace.


Before removing the cam lever, put a match mark on the cam lever and camshaft to indicate their positions for easy assembly.

E.    Rear Axle Inspection

(See Front Wheel, Axle Inspection Procedure.)

F.    Replacing Wheel Bearings

Rear wheel bearing replacement is similar to the procedure for the front wheel.

G.   Rear Wheel Inspection

(See Front Wheel, Inspection Procedures)

H. Installing Rear Wheel

1.    Lightly grease lips of rear wheel oil seals.

2.    Install the wheel assembly and axle.


When installing the rear wheel, be sure the splines on the wheel hub fit into the final gear case. Lightly apply grease to the gear teeth.

Always use a new cotter pin on the axle nut.

Tightening torque:
Axle nut: 10.7 m-kg (77.4 ft-lb)
Axle pinch bolt: 0.6 m-kg (4.5 ft-lb)




Disc brake components rarely require disassembly. Do not disassemble components unless absolutely necessary. If any hydraulic connection in the system is opened, the entire system should be disassembled, drained, cleaned and then properly filled and bled upon reassembly. Do not use solvents on brake internal components. Solvents will cause seals to swell and distort. Use only clean brake fluid for cleaning. Use care with brake fluid. Brake fluid is injurious to eyes and will damage painted surfaces and plastic parts.



Caliper Pad Replacement

It is not necessary to disassembly the brake caliper and brake hose to replace the brake pads.

1. Remove the front fender and front wheel.

2. Unhook the pad retaining pin clip and remove the clip.

1. Pad retaining pin   2. Clip

3. Pull out the pad retaining pin.

4. Remove the pads.

Pad wear limit: 4.0 mm (0.16 in)

5. Install the new brake pads and shims. Before installing the pads, install the shim on the back plate which faces the caliper piston, as shown. Also replace the following parts if pad replacement is required.

a.   Pad spring

b.  Shim

c.   Pad retaining pin

d.  Clip


Replace the pads as a set if either is found to be worn to the wear limit.

1. Shim          2. Disc rotating direction

Front Brake Caliper and Master Cylinder

Front Brake Caliper and Master Cylinder
xjcdadmin Sun, 05/30/2010 - 12:19


1. Remove the caliper brake hose. Allow fluid in the caliper assembly to drain into a container.

2.    Place the open hose end into the container and pump the old fluid out carefully.

3.    Remove the caliper mounting bolt and the pad retaining bolt.

4.    Remove the caliper assembly from the caliper frame.

5.    Remove the dust seal.

6.    Remove the piston.


Cover the piston with a rag. Use care so that the piston does not cause injury as it is expelled from the cylinder.

7. Remove the piston seal.

C. Master Cylinder Disassembly

1. Remove the brake light switch.

2. Remove the brake hose.

3.    Remove the brake lever and spring.

4.    Remove the master cylinder from the handlebar. Remove the cap and drain the remaining fluid.

5.    Remove the master cylinder dust boot.

6.    Remove the snap ring.

7. Remove the master cylinder cup assembly. Note that the cylinder cups are installed with the larger diameter (lips) inserted first.

D. Brake Inspection and Repair

Recommended Brake Component

Replacement Schedule: Brake pads; As required Piston seal, dust seal; Every two years Brake hoses; Every four years Brake fluid; Replace only when brakes are disassembled

1. Replace the caliper piston if it is scratched.

2. Replace any brake pad worn beyond limits. Always replace the brake pads as a set.

Wear limit: 0.8 mm (0.03 in)

1. Wear indicator

3.    Replace piston and dust seals if damaged. Replace seals every two years.

4.    Inspect master cylinder body. Replace if scratched. Clean all passages with new brake fluid.

5.    Inspect the brake hoses. Replace every four years or immediately if cracked, frayed, or damaged.

6.   Check for wear and deflection of disc.

Maximum deflection: 0.15 mm (0.006 in)

Minimum disc thickness: 4.5 mm (0.18 in)

1.  Dial gauge

2.  Disc

3. Dial gauge

If disc is worn beyond minimum thickness or deflection exceeds specified amount, replace disc.

E. Brake Reassembly

1. All internal parts should be cleaned in new brake fluid only. Internal parts should be lubricated with brake fluid when installed.

2. Caliper Reassembly

Replace the following parts whenever a caliper is disassembled: bleed screw and cap, boot bushing, piston seal, and dust seal.

a.   Install the piston seal and piston. Place the caliper cylinder into the caliper frame.

b.   Install the caliper assembly on the front fork.

Tightening torque: 35 Nm (3.5 mkg, 25 ft-lb)

c. Install the new brake pads and shims. Before installing the pads, install the shim on the back plate which faces the caliper piston, as shown.

1. Shim

Retaining bolt tightening torque: 22.5 Nm (2.25 m-kg, 16 ft-lb)

3. Attach the brake hoses (front and rear).

Brake hose torque: 25 Nm (2.5 m-kg, 18fMb)

4. Brake disc assembly

If brake disc has been removed from hub or is loose, tighten bolts. Use new locking washers and bend over locking tabs after bolts are tightened.

Disc bolt torque:

20 Nm (2.0m-kg, 14.5 ft-lb)

5. Master cylinder reassembly

1. Union bolt

2.  Copper washer

3. Matter cylinder kit

Reassemble master cylinder as shown in illustration.

Brake hose torque: (all brake union bolts) 25 Nm (2.5 m-kg,

6. Air bleeding


If the brake system is disassembled or if any brake hose has been loosened or removed, the brake system must be bled to remove air from the brake fluid. If the brake fluid level is very low or brake operation is incorrect, bleed the brake system.

Failure to bleed the brake system properly can result in a dangerous loss of braking performance.

a.   Add proper brake fluid to the reservoir. Install the diaphragm, being careful not to spill or overflow the reservoir.

b.  Connect the clear plastic tube of 4.5 mm (3/16 in) inside diameter tightly to the

caliper bleed screw. Put the other end of the tube into a container.

c.   Slowly apply the brake lever several times. Pull in the lever. Hold the lever in "on" position. Loosen the bfeed screw. Allow the lever to travel slowly toward its limit. When the limit is reached, tighten bleed screw. Then release the lever.

d.  Repeat step "c" procedure until all air bubbles are removed from system.


If bleeding is difficult, it may be necessary to let the brake fluid system stabilize for a few hours. Repeat the bleeding procedure when the tiny bubbles in the system settle out.


Front Forks

Front Forks
xjcdadmin Wed, 05/19/2010 - 13:20



Front fork disassembly


Securely support the motorcycle so it won't fall over when the front wheel and fork legs are removed.

1.  Remove the cap from the fork air valve and depress the valves until the air pressure escapes completely from both fork legs.

2.    Disconnect the speedometer cable from the speedometer drive unit.

3.    Remove the brake calipers from the fork legs.

4.    Remove the front wheel.

5.    Remove the front fender.

6.    Loosen the fork pinch bolts in the handle crown and underbracket.

7.    Remove the fork assembly from the handle crown and air valve bracket.

8.    Remove the spring wire circlips from the outside of the fork legs, and remove the fork legs from the under bracket.


Perform the fork leg disassembly and reassembly procedures on one fork leg at a time.

9.    Remove the cap bolt, and remove the spring seat and fork spring.

10. Inspect the o-ring on the cap bolt, and replace the o-ring if it is damaged.

11.    Over a drain pan, turn the fork leg upside down and slowly pump the fork oil out of the fork leg.

12.    Remove the damper rod bolt from the bottom the fork leg. (Using special tool)

13.    Hold one hand over the top of the fork leg, and turn the leg upside down so the damping rod and rebound spring slide down and out of the fork leg; take care not to let the damper rod fall to the ground, as it may be damaged.

14.   With the fork leg upright, use a propane torch to heat the top of the slider lightly, and remove the dust seal with a thin screwdriver. Take care not to scratch the inner tube. Discard the dust seal.


Do not apply too much heat to the slider, as the paint will be damaged.

15.    Remove the retaining clip.

16.    Hold the fork leg horizontally, securely clamp the axle-mounting boss of the slider in a vise with soft jaws, and again heat the top of the slider.

17.    Remove the oil seal and guide bushing from the outer fork tube.

18.    Remove all components of the oil lock valve assembly and inspect them; replace the assembly if there are any damaged components.

19.    Clean all components of the fork leg and inspect them; replace any worn or damaged components prior to reassembly.

Front fork reassembly

1.    Install the rebound spring on the damper rod.

2.    Install the damper rod in the inner fork tube, and allow it to slide slowly down the tube until it protrudes from the bottom.

3.    Place the taper spindle over the end of the damper rod, and insert the inner fork tube into the outer fork tube.

4.    Apply a thread-locking compound such as Loctite® to the threads of the cylinder securing bolt, install the bolt in the damper rod, and torque it to specification. (Using special tool 90890-04084.)

Tightening torque: 20 Nm (2.0 m-kg, 14 ft-lb)

5. Install the guide bushing in the special 36 mm (1.4 in) fork tool (TLM-11080-10-00 or YM-08010). Use the tool to align the bushing in the top of the slider.

1. Guide bushing

6. Remove the large part of the fork tool, place the small part (TLM-11080-10-01 or YM-08010-1) on the guide bushing, and use the large part of the tool to drive in the bushing.

7.    Oil and install a new oil seal in the top of the slider with the special tool. Making sure the beveled edge faces upward.

8.    Install the retaining clip, and gently tap the dust seal into place with the special tool.

9.    Pour the specified amount of the recommended fork oil into the inner fork tube.

Fork oil capacity: 257 cm3, (9.0 Imp oz, 8.7 US oz)

Recommended oil: Yamaha Fork Oil 10wt or SAE 10W30 type SE motor oil

10. Place the fork spring, spring seat, and spacer in the inner fork tube. Install the cap bolt assembly and tighten to specification.

Tightening torque: Cap bolt 30 Nm (3.0 m-kg, 22 ft-lb)


To tighten the cap-bolt assembly first make sure the damper adjustment rod is fitted correctly in the semicircular hole in the top of the damper rod. If the adjusting rod is not put in this hole, the cap-bolt assembly will not touche the inner fork tube. If this is the case, turn the cap-bolt assembly until the adjusting rod falls into the hole in the damper rod; the cap-bolt assembly will then touch the inner fork tube so you will able to tighten the cap-bolt assembly. Do not force the cap-bolt assembly; you could damage the adjusting rod and ruin the unit.

11.    Slide the fork into the underbracket, and install the stopper ring.

12.    Apply a light coat of lithium soap base grease to the o-rings in the air joint bracket.

13.    Push the fork assembly into the air joint bracket, rubber spacer and handle crown.

When inserting the fork into the air joint bracket, grease the air joint bracket o-ring, and after insertion, make sure the o-ring fits correctly in the groove.

14. Torque the pinch bolts in the handle crown and underbracket.

Tightening torque: 20 Nm (2.0 m-kg, 14 ft-lb)

15.    Install the cap onto the cap bolt. For the procedure, refer to "Front fork oil change".

16.    Install the proper amount of air pressure in the fork legs. Take care not to exceed the maximum allowable air pressure.

Maximum fork air pressure: 245 kPa (2.5 kg/cm2, 36 psi)

17. Install the air valve caps.


Make sure no oil has contacted any disc brake components; oil will cause diminished braking capacity and damage the rubber components of the brake assembly. Make sure all oil is removed from the brake and actuating piston assemblies before they are reassembled and the motorcycle is operated.

18.  Install the front fender, handlebar front wheel, and brake calipers.

19.    Connect the speedometer cable to the drive unit, and check the operation of the motorcycle.

Steering Head

Steering Head
xjcdadmin Wed, 05/19/2010 - 13:20




A. Adjustment

Refer to "D. Reassembly" (below) for steering head adjustment procedure.

B. Removal

1.    Remove the front wheel, front forks and handlebars.

2.    Remove the front brake pipe junction.

3. Loosen the steering stem (upper bracket) pinch bolt.

4. Remove the stem bolt and steering crown.

5. Remove the top fitting nut (ring nut).

6.   Support the steering stem (under bracket) and remove the bottom fitting nut (ring nut).

7.    Remove the top bearing race and all of the bearing balls from the upper bearing

Ball quantity (upper and lower): 38 pieces.

C. Inspection

1.   Wash the bearings in solvent.

2.    Inspect the bearings for pitting or other damage. Replace the bearings if pitted or damaged. Replace the races when bearing balls are replaced.

3.    Clean and inspect the bearing races. Spin the bearings by hand. If the bearings are not smooth in their operation in the races, replace bearing balls and races.

1. Bearing race

D. Reassembly

1. Grease the bearings and races with wheel bearing race.

2.    Install the steering stem (under bracket), bearing balls, and races.

3.    Install the bottom fitting nut. Tighten it to approximately 2.5 m-kg (18 ft-lb) and loosen it approximately 1/4 turn.

4.    While holding the bottom fitting nut with the ring nut wrench, tighten the top fitting nut securely.

5.    Continue reassembly in the reverse of disassembly order.

6.   When assembly is complete, check the steering stem by turning it from lock to lock. If there is any binding or looseness, readjust the steering stem tightness.

Pinch bolt torque: 2.0 m-kg (14.5 ft-lb)

Steering stem bolt torque 5.4 m-kg (39.1 ft-lb)


Swing Arm, Rear Shocks, Cables and Fittings

Swing Arm, Rear Shocks, Cables and Fittings
xjcdadmin Sun, 05/23/2010 - 22:34


A. Inspection

1. Free play inspection

Remove the rear wheel and both shock absorbers. Grasp the swing arm and try to move it from side to side as shown. There should be no noticeable side play.

2. The swing arm is mounted on tapered bearings. Move the swing arm up and down as shown. The swing arm should move smoothly, without tightness, binding or rough spots that could indicate damaged bearings.

B. Adjustment

1.    Remove the pivot shaft cap from the right side of the swing arm.

2.    Loosen the right pivot shaft lock nut and tighten the pivot shaft (clockwise) to 0.5-0.6m-kg(43~52in-lb).

3. Tighten the pivot shaft lock nut.


Do not allow the pivot shaft to turn while tightening the lock nut.

Pivot shaft lock nut torque: 10m-kg (72.3ft-lb)

C. Removal

1.    Remove the middle gear flange holding bolts.

2.    Remove the rear wheel and shock absorbers.

3.    Remove the final gear assembly.

4.    Install the drive shaft puller attachment (special tool) on the side hammer bolt (special tool). Insert the 2 arms of the puller into the mouth of drive shaft housing. Tighten the 2 arms around the toothed flange of the drive shaft out of the universal joint. Pull out the drive shaft from the housing.

1.  Drive shaft     2.  Drive shaft puller      3. Slide hammer

5. Remove the swing arm pivot caps, the pivot shafts and the swing arm.

D. Inspection and Lubrication

1. Remove the oil seals and the bearings. Inspect the bearings for pitting or other damage. Make sure that the bearings roll freely. If a bearing is damaged, both bearings and both sets of inner and outer bearing races should be replaced.


Do not use compressed air to spin the bearings dry. This causes damage to the bearing surfaces.


When installing new bearings, grease liberally with lithium base, waterproof wheel bearing grease.

2.    Always replace the grease seals when bearings are removed.

3.    Examine the rubber boot for damage. Replace if damaged.

E. Installation

Installation of the swing arm can be accomplished by reversing the removal procedure. Observe adjustment procedures for obtaining equal frame/swing arm spacing.

Tightening torque:
Left side pivot shaft: 10 m-kg (72.3 ft-lb)
Right side pivot lock nut: 10 m-kg (72.3 ft-lb)


A lock washer for left side pivot bolt must be replaced with a new one and the tab should be bent over along the bolt flat after tightening.

1. Lock washer


A.   Removal

1. Remove one (1) rear shock absorber at a time, inspect and reinstall before removing the other.

B.   Inspection

1.    Check the rod. If it is bent or damaged, replace the shock absorber.

2.    Check for oil leakage. If oil leakage is evident, replace the shock absorber.

3.    Operate shock absorber rod to check damping. There should be no noticeable damping as the shock extends.

4.    Install the shock absorber on the motorcycle.

Tightening torque:

3.0 m-kg (21.7 ft-lb)

CABLE AND FITTINGS A. Cable Maintenance


See Maintenance and Lubrication intervals charts. Cable maintenance is primarily concerned with preventing deterioration through rust and weathering and providing proper lubrication to allow the cable to move freely within its housing. Cable removal is straight forward and uncomplicated. Removal will not be discussed within this section.


Cable routing is very important. For details of cable routing, see the cable routing diagrams at the end of this manual. Improperly routed or adjusted cables may make the motorcycle unsafe for operation.

1.    Remove the cable.

2.    Check for free movement of cable within its housing. If movement is obstruced, check for fraying or kinking of the cable strands. If damage is evident, replace the cable assembly.

3.    To lubricate the cable, hold it in a vertical position. Apply lubricant to the uppermost end of cable. Leave it in the vertical position until lubricant appears at the bottom. Allow any excess to drain and reinstall the cable.


Choice of lubricant depends upon conditions and preferences. However, a semi-drying chain and cable lubricant will perform adequately under most conditions.

B. Throttle Maintenance

1. Remove the Phillips head screws from throttle housing assembly and separate the two halves of housing.

2.    Disconnect the cable end from the throttle grip assembly and remove the grip assembly.

3.    Wash all parts in a mild solvent and check all contact surfaces for burrs or other damage. (Also clean and inspect right-hand end of the handlebar.)

4.    Lubricate all contact surfaces with a light coat of lithium soap base grease and reassemble.


Tighten the housing screws evenly to maintain an even gap between the two halves.

5. Check for smooth throttle operation and quick spring return when released and make certain that the housing does not rotate on the handlebar.


Shaft and Rear Drive -- Disassembly and Inspection

Shaft and Rear Drive -- Disassembly and Inspection
xjcdadmin Wed, 05/19/2010 - 13:20



Refer to "CHAPTER 3". for the middle gear.

The following special tools are not available but can be constructed for the final gear disassembly and assembly:



A. Troubleshooting

1. The following conditions may indicate damaged shaft drive components:



Possible damaged areas

1.  A pronounced hesitation or "jerky" movement during acceleration, deceleration, or sustained speed. (This must not be confused with engine surging or transmission characteristics).

2.  A "rolling rumble" noticeable at low speed; a high-pitched whine; a "clunk" from a shaft drive component or area.

A.  Damage to bearings.

B.  Improper gear lash.

C.  Gear tooth damage.

D.  Drive flange/universal joint bolts loose.

3. A locked-up condition of the shaft drive mechanism; no power transmitted from engine to rear wheel.

E.  Broken drive-shaft.

F.  Disconnected flange/universal joint connection.

G. Broken gear teeth.

H. Seizure due to lack of lubrication.

I. Small foreign object lodged between moving parts.



Damage areas A, B, and C above may be extremely difficult to diagnose. The symptoms are quite subtle and difficult to distinguish from normal motorcycle operating noise. If there is reason to believe component(s) are damaged, remove component(s) for specific inspection.

2. Inspection Notes:

a.   During coasting, accelerating or decelerating, the "rolling rumble" will increase with rear wheel speed, not engine or transmission gear speeds. However, such noise may also be due to wheel bearings.

b.   Noise that varies with acceleration and deceleration: Following incorrect reassembly, a condition of too-little gear lash may produce a whine during deceleration.


Too-little gear lash is extremely destructive to gear teeth. If a test ride following reassembly indicates this condition, stop riding immediately to minimize damage to gears.

c. A slight "thunk" must be distinguished from normal motorcycle operation. It will be most noticeable at low speed and could indicate broken gear teeth.


If broken gear teeth are suspected, stop riding immediately. This condition could lead to locking-up of the shaft drive assembly and result in harm to a rider.

d. If the drive flange/universal joint bolts are slightly loose, a "clunk" may be felt when slowly taking off, or when changing from slow acceleration to slow deceleration. At high speed this will result in vibration.


Do not continue riding a motorcycle suspected of having loose flange/universal joint bolts. The components may break, causing injury to a rider.

3. Troubleshooting Chart

Where Basic Conditions "a" and "b" above exist, consider the following Chart:

Elevate and spin front wheel. Feel for wheel bearing damage.


Replace wheel bearing.

(See CHAPTER 5 "Front wheel")


Check rear wheel.

Feel for bearing damage.



Rear wheel bearings and shaft drive bearings probably not damaged.

Repeat test or remove individual components.


Remove rear wheel. Check for wheel bearing damage.


Replace rear wheel bearing. (See "Rear Wheel" section in this chapter.)


Remove drive shaft components.

4. Oil Leak Inspection

If a shaft drive component is suspected of leaking oil, first thoroughly clean the entire motorcycle. The apparent location of an oil leak on a dusty motorcycle may be misleading. Dry the motorcycle and apply a leak-localizing compound or a dry-powder spray that will limit the flow of any leaking oil. Operate the motorcycle prepared in this way for the distance necessary to precisely locate the leak. There are the possibilities that a component housing may have been damaged by road debris or an accident, or a gasket or seal may be cracked or broken. However, on new or nearly new motorcycle an apparent oil leak may be the result of a rust-preventive coating or excess assembly lubrication of seals. Always clean the motorcycle and recheck the suspected location of any apparent leakage.

5. Checking Drained Oil

Whenever a problem is suspected in either the middle or final gear assemblies, drain and inspect the oil. Metal particles on the drain plug or in the oil could indicate a bearing seizure or other problem in the component. However, a small amount of metal particles in the oil is normal.

B.   Final Gear Removal

1.    Remove the rear axle and left shock absorber. Remove the rear wheel (see "Rear Wheel" section in this chapter).

2.    Remove the 4 nuts holding the Final Drive unit to the swing arm.

3.    Remove the final gear assembly.

C.   Gear Lash Check and Adjustment

1.    Secure the gear case in a vice or other support.

2.    Remove one nut from the final gear case stud bolt. Install the gear holder (special tool) over the ring gear surface and stud bolt. Tighten the holder to stud bolt with a nut.

1. Final gear holding tool

3. Install the final gear lash measurement tool on the gear coupling.

1. Gear lash measurement tool (Final gear)

4. Mount a dial gauge against the lash measurement tool at the scribed mark (60 mm, 2.36 in from the center of the shaft).

5. Use the special wrench to gently rotate the gear coupling back and forth. Note the lash measurement on the dial gauge.

Final gear lash:
0.25 - 0.50 mm (0.010-0.020 in): When using the measurement tool.
0.1 ~ 0.2 mm (0.004 ~ 0.008 in): Actual gear lash on the final gear teeth.

1. Middle and final gear holding tool

6. If the gear lash exceeds the specified limits, adjust as follows:

a.   To reduce gear lash, increase the ring gear shim.

b.   To increase gear lash, reduce ring gear shim.

1. Ring gear shim

c. If it is necessary to increase the ring gear shim by more than 0.1 mm reduce the thrust washer thickness by 0.1 mm for each 0.1 mm of ring gear shim increase and if it is necessary to reduce shim by more than 0.1 mm, reverse above procedure.

D. Final Gear Disassembly

1. Remove the nuts and bolts holding the bearing housing.

2.    Remove the ring gear assembly and thrust washer from the final gear case.

3. Remove the self-locking nut from drive pinion by using the holding tool (special tool) and remove the coupling.

1. Middle and final gear holding tool

4. Remove the drive pinion bearing retainer with the retainer remover (special tool).


The drive pinion bearing retainer nut is left hand threads. Turn the retainer nut clockwise to loosen.

1. Drive pinion bearing retainer remover

5. Remove the drive pinion and bearing with the slide hammer and adapter (special tool).

1. Slide hammer    2. Adapter


This drive pinion removal should be performed only if gearing replacement is necessary. Do not re-use bearings or races after removal.

6. Remove the guide collar, oil seal, and roller bearing from the main housing by using the press tool No. 1 (special tool) and a press. Use an appropriate supports for the main housing during this operation. The roller bearing may be re-used if undamaged. Do not re-use oil seal.

Rear drive pinion roller bearing; removal of this bearing is difficult and seldom necessary. Heat the bare housing to 150°C (302°F). Use an appropriately shaped punch to remove the roller bearing outer race. Remove the inner race from the drive pinion.




Shaft and Final Drive - Reassembly

Shaft and Final Drive - Reassembly
xjcdadmin Sun, 05/30/2010 - 08:40

E. Final Gear Reassembly

1.    Install the new rear drive pinion roller bearing. Heat the bare bearing to 150°C (302°F) and use an appropriately adapter to install the roller bearing outer race. Install the inner race onto the drive pinion.

2.    Using the press tool No. 2 (special tool) and a press, install the guide collet, new oil seal, and roller bearing into the main housing in that order.


The removed roller bearing can be used if undamaged however, Yamaha recommends replacement with a new one.

3. Final drive/ring gear positioning


When the following part(s) is replaced with new one(s), gear positioning is necessary:
a. Final gear case,
b. Ring gear bearing housing,
c. Bearing(s)

a. The shim thickness "A" necessary for the drive pinion gear positioning can be calculated from the information found on the final gear case and on the drive gear end.

1. Size number

To fined shim thickness "A" use the


A = a -b


a = a numeral (usually a decimal number) on the gear near the tooth and either added to or detracted from the nominal size "84".

b = a numeral on the gear case appearing as a whole figure (ie. 83.50).


1)    If the pinion gear is marked "+01"....."a" is 84.01.

2)    If the gear case is marked "83.50".

A = 84.01 - 83.50
A = 0.51

Then the necessary shim thickness is 0.51mm.

Shim sizes are supplied in the following thicknesses:
0.15 mm,
0.30 mm,
0.40 mm,
0.50 mm,
0.60 mm.

Because the shims can only be selected in 0.05 mm increments the following chart should be used when encountering last digits that are not 5 or zero (0):

Last digits




3, 4, 5, 6, 7




b. The shim thickness "B" necessary for the ring gear positioning can be calculated from the information found on the final gear case, ring gear, and bearing.

To find shim, thickness "B" use the


B = c + d-(e + f)


c= a numeral on the gear case appearing as a whole figure (ie. 45.52)

d = a numeral (usually a decimal number) on the outside of the ring gear bearing housing and added to the nominal size "3".

e= a numeral (usually a decimal number) on the inside of the ring gear and; either added to or detracted from the nominal size "35.40".

f = a bearing thickness (considered constant)

Distance "f" = 13.00 mm


1)    If the gear case is marked "45.52".

2)   If the ring gear bearing housing is marked "35"....."d" is 3.35.

3)    If the ring gear is marked "+01" ..... "e" is 35.40 + 0.01 = 35.41.

4)   "f" is 13.00.

B = c + d-(e + f)

B = 45.52 + 3.35 - (35.41 + 13.00)

B = 48.87- (48.41)

B = 0.46

Then the necessary shim thickness is

0.41 mm.


Use the chart for the drive pinion shim to select the ring gear shim size.

4. Install the drive pinion gear with the proper size of shim(s) and secure it with the bearing retainer nut with the drive pinion bearing retainer remover (special tool).


The bearing retainer nut is left hand threads; turn the nut to counterclockwise to tighten.

Tightening torque: 11 m-kg (80 ft-lb)

Install the ring gear assembly without the thrust washer. Adjust the gear lash (refer to "C. Gear lash check and adjustment).

Place four pieces of "PLASTIGAGE" between the originally fitted thrust washer and ring gear. Install the gear case onto the ring gear assembly and tighten the nuts and bolts with the specified torque.

Tightening torque;

Bolt/Nut......... 2.3 m-kg (16.6 ft-lb)


Do not turn the drive pinion/ring gear when measuring clearance with "PLASTIGAGE".

8. Remove the ring gear assembly and determine the clearance by measuring the width of the flattened "PLASTIGAGE".


Ring gear thrust clearance. 0.1 ~ 0.2 mm

9. If the clearance exceeds the specification above, replace the thrust washer to obtain the proper clearance.


A. Removal

1.    Remove the rear wheel. See "REAR WHEEL A. Removal" in this chapter.

2.    Remove the final gear case assembly.

3.    Remove the drive shaft. See "SWING ARM removal" in this chapter.

4.   To remove the universal joint, it is necessary to remove the swing arm. Remove the universal joint assembly.

B,   Inspection

1. Drive shaft

Inspect the shaft splines for wear and/or damage. If excessive, replace the drive shaft.


When installing the drive shaft, lubricate splines with molybdenum di-sulfide grease.

2. Universal joint

a. There should be no noticeable play in the universal joint bearings. If there is any play in the bearing, replace the universal joint assembly.

b. Move the universal joint up and down and from side to side. The universal joint should move smoothly. Without tightness, binding or rough spots that could indicate damaged bearings. If damaged, replace the universal joint assembly.

C. Reinstallation

When installing the drive shaft and the universal joint, reverse the removal procedure. Note the following points:

1.    Lubricate the shaft splines with molybdenum di-sulfide grease.

2.    Tighten the universal joint securing bolts and final gear case securing nuts with the specified torque:

Final gear case: 4.2 m-kg (30.4 ft-lb)
Universal joint: 4.4 m-kg (31.8 ft-lb)