xjcdadmin Wed, 05/19/2010 - 13:20





This chapter includes all information necessary to perform recommend inspection
and adjustments. These preventative maintenance procedures, if followed, will
insure more reliable vehicle operation and a longer service life. The need for costly
overhaul work will be greatly reduced. This information applies not only to vehicles
already in service, but also to new vehicles that are being prepared for sale. Any
service technician performing preparation work should be familiar with this entire chapter.



xjcdadmin Wed, 05/19/2010 - 13:20


Proper periodic maintenance is important. Especially important are the maintenance services
related to emissions control. These controls not only function to ensure cleaner air but
are also vital to proper engine operation and maximum performance. In the following tables
of periodic maintenance, the services related to emissions control are grouped separately.







Initial break-in

Thereafter every

1,000 km

(600 mi)

or 1 month

5,000 km (3.000 mi) or 7 months

4,000 km (2,500 mi) or 6 months

8,000 km

(5,000 mi)

or 12 months


Valve clearance

Check and adjust valve clearance when engine is cold.






Spark plugs

Check condition. Adjust cap. Clean. Replace at 13.000 km (or 18 months) or thereafter every 12,000 km (or 18 months).




Replace every 12,000 km (7,500 mi) or 18 months.


Crankcase ventilation system

Check ventilation hose for cracks or damage. Replace if necessary.






Fuel line

Check fuel hose and vacuum pipe or damage. Replace if necessary.






Exhaust system

Check for leakage. Retighten if necessary. Replace gasket(s) if necessary.






Carburetor synchronization

Adjust synchronization of carburetors.






Idle speed

Check and adjust engine idle speed. Adjust cable free play if necessary.






*lt is recommended that these items be serviced by a
Yamaha dealer or other qualified mechanic.








Initial break-in

Thereafter every

1,000 km (600 mi)

or 1 month

5,000 km (3,000 mi)

or 7 months

4,000 km (2,500 mi)

or 6 months

8,000 km (5,000 mi)

or* 12 months

16,000 km (10,000 mi)

or 24 months


Engine oil

Warm-up engine before draining.

Refer to NOTE







Oil filter








Final gear oil


Refer to NOTE






Air filter

Chain with compressed air.








Brake system

Adjust free play. Replace pads if necessary. Check plunger case for brake fluid leakage (front). Replace shoes if necessary (rear).









Adjust free play.








Control and meter cable

Apply chain lube thoroughly.

Yamaha chain and cable lube or SAE 10W/30 motor oil







Brake pedal and change pedal shaft pivots

Apply chain lube lightly.

Yamaha chain and cable lube or SAE 10W/30 motor oil







Center and side stand pivots

Apply chain lube lightly.

Yamaha chain and cable lube or SAE 10W/30 motor oil







Rear arm pivot bearing

Check bearings assembly for looseness. Moderately repack every 16,000 km (10.000 mi).

Medium weight wheel bearing grease











Initial break-in

Thereafter every

1,000 km (600 mi)

or 1 month

5,000 km (3,000 mi)

or 7 months

4,000 km (2.600 mi)

or 6 months

8,000 km (5.000 mi)

or 12 months

16,000 km (10.000 mi)

or 24 months


Front fork oil

Drain completely. Refill to specification.

Yamaha fork oil lOWt or equivalent







Steering bearing and races

Check bearings assembly for looseness. Moderately repack every 16,000 km (10.000 mi).

Medium weight when bearing grease







Wheel bearings

Check bearings for smooth rotation. Replace if necessary.









Check specific gravity Check breather pipe for proper operation.








Brake/dutch lever pivot shaft

Apply chain lube lightly.

Yamaha chain and cable lube or SAE 10W/30 motor oil







A.C. Generator

Replace generator brushes. Replace at initial 13,000 km (8,000 mi) and thereafter every 16,000 km (10,000 mi).








* It is recommended that these items be serviced by a Yamaha dealer or other qualified mechanic.

*It is recommended that these items be serviced by a Yamaha dealer
or other qualified mechanic.

Engine Maintenance

Engine Maintenance
xjcdadmin Sun, 05/23/2010 - 22:34





A. Valve Clearance Adjustment



Valve clearance must be measured with the engine and at room temperature.

1.    Remove the seat and fuel tank.

2.    Remove the horn, flasher relay, and spark plug lead wires.


3.    Remove the cylinder head cover and left crankcase cover (pick-up base cover). Care should be taken to not scratch or damage the gasket sealing surfaces,

4.    Turn the crankshaft with the nut on the left end of the crankshaft to turn the cams. The proper position of the cam when measuring the valve clearance is with the cam lobe directly opposite the valve lifter.



5. Insert a feeler gauge between the valve lifter and the camshaft base circle.



Intake valve clearance (cold):



0.15 mm

(0.004 ~ 0.006


Exhaust valve clearance (cold):



-0.20 mm






Valve clearance is adjusted by replacing the adjusting pad on the top of the vale lifter. Adjusting pads are available in 25 thicknesses ranging from No. 200 (2.00 mm) to No. 320 (3.20 mm) in steps of 0.05 mm. The thickness of each pad is marked on the pad face that contacts the valve lifter (not the cam). Adjustment of the valve clearance is accomplished as follows:

1.    Determine valve clearance (feeler gauge measurement.)

2.    Remove adjusting pad and note number.

3.    Select proper pad from appropriate chart (intake or exhaust chart).

4.    Install new pad and check installed clearance.


1.    Measure valve clearance. If clearance is incorrect, record the measured amount of clearance. This must be measured carefully.

2.   There is a slot in the valve lifter. This slot must be positioned opposite the blade of the tappet adjusting tool before the tools is installed.

3.    Turn the cam until the lobe fully depresses the valve lifter and opens the valve. Install the tappet adjusting tool as shown to hold the lifter in this depressed position.


The tappet adjusting tool is fastened to the cylinder head securely using an alien screw. Make sure that the tool contacts the lifter only, and not the pad.


If the cam lobe touches the tappet adjusting tool, the stress may fracture the cylinder head. DO NOT ALLOW THE CAM LOBE TO CONTACT THE TAPPET ADJUSTING TOOL.


4. Carefully rotate the cam so that the pad can be removed. To avoid cam touching the adjusting tool, turn cams as follows: (view from left side of the motorcycle) Intake: Carefully rotate CLOCKWISE. Exhaust: Carefully rotate COUNTERCLOCKWISE.

5. Remove the pad from the lifter. There is a slot in the lifter. Use a small screwdriver or other blade and tweezers or a magnetic rod to remove the pad. Note the number on the pad.

6  Proper pad selection is made as follows:

Chart lookup method:

Refer to the appropriate chart for exhaust or intake valves:

0.11 to 0.15mm required clearance (Intake side) chart

0.15 to 0.20mm required clearance (Exhaust side) chart

a.   Find number of original (installed) pad number on chart. Read down on chart.

b.   Find measured valve clearance (from step 1) on chart. Read across.

c.   At the intersection of installed pad number (down) and measured clearance (across) is a new pad number.


Intake valve, installed pad: No. 250 (read down)
Measured clearance:0.32 mm (read across)

New pad number: No. 270(intersection of down & across)

Alternate shim calculation method:

Since all shims come in .05mm (.002") increments, you can quickly calculate the required size without a chart.

If the measured clearance is within 0.05mm (0.002") of the required clearance, then no change is needed.

If the measured clearance greater than 0.05mm (0.002") but 0.10mm (0.004") or less different than the required clearance then the next size shim is required.

If the measured clearance greater than 0.10mm (0.004") but 0.15mm (0.006") or less different than the required clearance then the next size shim is required.

Clearances that are too small require thinner shims. Clearances that are too large require thicker shims.

Example: Required exhaust valve clearance is 0.16~0.20mm. Measured clearance is 0.12mm (gap too small). Installed shim is Y270. Required shim is one size thinner: Y265.


The new pad number is to be used as a guide only. Verify the correctness of this choice in the following step(s).

7.    Install the new pad in the lifter. Install the pad with the number down.

8.    Remove tappet adjusting tool,

9.   Turn crankshaft to rotate cam several rotations. This will set the pad in the lifter.

10.   Check valve clearance (step 3). If clearance is incorrect, repeat preceding steps until proper clearance is obtained.

11.    Inspect head cover gasket. If bent or torn, replace gasket.

12.    Reinstall removed parts in reverse order.




This model has been equipped the automatic cam chain tensioner. No adjustment is necessary.

When installing this tensioner onto the cylinder proceed as follows:

1. Remove the end plug and spring from the tensioner assembly.

2.    Unlock the oneway cam by pushing it with your finger and push the tensioner rod into the tensioner body until it stops.

3.    Install the tensioner to the cylinder and torque the bolts to the specification.

Tightening torque: 1.0m-kg (7.2 ft-lb)

4. Reinstall the spring and end plug with the gasket. Torque the end plug to the specification.

Tightening torque: 1.5m-kg (11 ft-lb)


C. Ignition Timing

1. Ignition timing is checked with a timing light by observing the position of the stationary pointer and the marks stamped on the timing plate.

The timing plate is marked as follows:



... Firing range for No.1 (L.H.)



... Top Dead Center for No. 1 
(L.H.) and No. 4 (R.H.)

2.    Connect the timing light to No. 1 (L.H.) spark plug lead wire.

3.   Start the engine and keep the engine speed as specified. Use a tachometer to check the engine speed.

Specified engine speed: 1,050 r/min

4. The stationary pointer should be within the limits of "PI" on the timing plate. If it exceeds the limits or does not steady, check the timing plate for tightness and/or ignition system for damage. (See "CHAPTER 6. ELECTRICAL)


Never bend the stationary pointer.


D. Air Cleaner

1. Removal

a.   Remove the seat.

b.   Remove the tool tray.

c.   Remove the air filter case cover by removing the three screws.

d. Pull out the element.

1. Air filter element

2. Cleaning method

Tap the element lightly to remove most of the dust and dirt; then blow out the remaining dirt with compressed air from the inner surface of the element. If element is damaged, replace it.

3.    Reassemble by reversing the removal procedure. Check whether the element is seated completely against the case.

4.    The air filter element should be cleaned at the specified intervals.


The engine should never be run without the air cleaner element installed; excessive piston and/or cylinder wear may result.

E. Carburetor


The carburetors are numbered 1, 2, 3, and 4 from the left when viewed from astride the motorcycle.

1.    Idle mixture

The idle mixture is set at the factory by the use of special equipment. Not attempt should be made by the dealer to change this adjustment.

2.    Synchronization


The seat must be opened and the rear of the tank elevated to gain access to the vacuum connections and synchronizing screw of the carburetors.


The valve clearances must be set properly before synchronizing the carburetors.

1.    Remove the vacuum pipe from the carburetor manifold (No. 3 cylinder) and turn the fuel petcock to "PRI".

2.    Remove the rubber caps from the No. 1, 2, and 4 carburetor manifolds.


1. Vacuum pipe 2. Rubber cap

3.    Remove either the left or right (but not both) blind plug at the end of the YICS (Yamaha Induction Control System) passage in the cylinder.

4.    Insert the YICS shutoff tool (special tool) fully and flip the locking lever.

5.    Connect each vacuum gauge hose to its proper carburetor.

1. Vacuum gauge

6.    Start the engine allow it to warm-up for a few minutes. The warm-up is complete when engine responds normally to the throttle opening.

7.    Make sure the engine idle speed is 950 ~ 1,000 r/min. If it does not, adjust the idle speed with the throttle stop screw.


With the YICS shutoff tool fitted, the engine speed generally drops a little. Thus, continue with the following steps at idle speed of 950 ~ 1,000 r/min.

8.     Each gauge reading will indicate the same if the carburetors are synchronized. The No. 3 carburetor has no synchronizing screw and the other carburetors are to be synchronized to it in order, one at a time.

First, synchronize carburetor No. 1 to carburetor No. 2 by turning the No. 1 synchronizing screw until both gauges read the same.

Second, in the same way synchronize carburetor No. 4 to carburetor No. 3. Third, by adjusting No. 2 screw to watch No. 3 carburetor reading, No. 1 and No. 2 carburetors will both change to match No. 3 carburetor.


1. Synchronizing screws

9. Remove the YICS shutoff tool and reinstall the blind plug.

Tightening torque: 2.2 m-kg (16.0 ft-lb)

10. Check the idle speed. Adjust if necessary.




Carburetors must be synchronized before setting final idle speed. The idle speed adjustment is made by turning only one throttle stop screw.

1.    The engine must be warmed up before setting idle speed.

2.    Set the engine idle speed by turning the throttle stop screw in (to increase engine speed) or out (to decrease engine speed).

Standard idle speed: 1,050 r/min


1. Throttle stop screw

F. Engine Oil

1. Oil level measurement a. Place the motorcycle on the center stand. Warm up the engine for several minutes.


Be sure the motorcycle is positioned straight up when checking the oil level; a slight tilt toward the side can produce false readings.

b. With the engine stopped, check the oil level through the level window located at the lower part of the right side crank-case cover.


Wait a few minutes until the oil level settles before checking.

c. The oil level should be maximum level. If the level is lower, add sufficient oil to raise it to the maximum level.

2. Engine oil and oil filter replacement

a.   Start, the engine and stop it after a few minutes of warm-up.

b.  Place an oil pan under the engine and remove the oil filler cap.

c.   Remove the engine and middle gear drain plugs and drain the oil.

1. Engine drain plug


1. Middle gear drain plug

d. Remove the oil filter bolt and filter element.

1. Oil filter cover

e. Re-install the drain plugs (make sure they are tight).

Drain plug torque:


Middle gear:


m-kg (11.6 ft-lb)




f. Install the new oil filter element, new "O-ring" and filter cover, tighten the oil filter bolt.

Oil filter bolt torque: 1.5 m-kg (11.0 ft-lb)


When installing the filter cover, make sure the "O-ring" is positioned properly and insert the locating projection on it into the corresponding guides on the crankcase.

1. Proper O-ring position

g. Add oil through the oil filler hole.

Periodic oil change: 2.35 lit (2.5 US qt.)

With oil filler replacement: 2.65 lit (2.8 US qt.)

Recommended oil:


h. After replacement of the engine oil, and/ or oil filter, be sure to check for oil leakage. The oil level indicator light should go off after the oil is filled.


If the indicator light flickers or remains on, the oil level switch may be damaged. Refer to "CHAPTER 6" for corrective action.

G. Final Gear Oil

1. Oil level measurement

a.   Place the motorcycle on a level place and place it on the center stand. The engine should be cool (at atmospheric temperature).

b.   Remove the oil filler cap and check the oil level whether it is to the hole brim. If it is not up to this level, replenish oil.


Take care not to allow foreign material to enter the final gear case.

2. Gear oil replacement

a.   Place an oil pan under the final gear case.

b.   Remove the final gear oil filler cap and the drain plug, and drain the oil.


1. Final gear drain plug

c. Reinstall and tighten the final gear drain plug.

d. Fill the gear case to the specified level.

Oil capacity: 0.20 lit (0.21 US qt.)

Recommended oil: SAE 80 API "GL-4" Hypoid gear oil

If desired, an SAE 80W/90 hypoid gear oil may be used for all conditions.

e. Reinstall the filler cap securely.

H. Compression Pressure Measurement

Insufficient compression pressure will result in performance loss and may indicate leaking valves or worn or damaged piston rings. Procedure:

1.   Make sure the valve clearance is correct.

2.    Remove the headlight fuse from the fuse box.

3.   Warm up the engine 2 ~ 3 minutes. Stop the engine.

4.    Remove the all spark plugs.

5.    Install a compression check gauge.

6.   Turn over the engine with the electric starter (make sure the battery is fully charged) with the throttle wide open until the pressure indicated on the gauge does not increase further.

Compression pressure (at sea level):
Standard.......11 kg/cm2 (156 psi)

Minimum.......9 kg/cm2 (128 psi)
Maximum......12 kg/cm2 (171 psi)


When cranking the engine, ground the removal spark plug wires to prevent sparking.


1. Compression gauge

7.    If the pressure is too low, squirt a few drops of oil into the cylinder being measures. Measure compression again. If there is a higher reading than before (without oil), the piston rings may be worn or damaged. If the pressure remains the same after measuring with the oil, either or both the rings and valves may be the cause.

8.    Check each cylinder. Compression pressure should not vary more than specified value from one cylinder to any other cylinder.

Difference in gauge reading: Less than 1 kg/cm2(14 psi)

I. Clutch Adjustment

Free play adjustment

a.   Loosen either the handle lever adjuster lock nut or the cable length adjuster lock nut.

b.  Turn the cable length adjuster either in or out until proper lever free play is achieved.

1. Lock nut 2. Adjuster a. 2~3 mm (0.08~0.12 in)


1. Lock nut 2. Adjuster

Chassis Maintenance

Chassis Maintenance
xjcdadmin Wed, 05/19/2010 - 13:20

Front Fork, Rear Shock

Front Fork, Rear Shock
xjcdadmin Wed, 05/19/2010 - 13:20

Front fork and rear shock absorber adjustment

Front fork air pressure

1. Elevate the front wheel by placing the motorcycle on the center stand.


When checking and adjusting the air pressure, there should be no weight on the front end of the motorcycle.

2.    Remove the air valve cap from left fork.

3.    Using the air gauge, check and adjust the air pressure.

If the air pressure is increased, the suspension becomes stiffer and if decreased, it becomes softer.

To increase: Use a manual air pump or other pressurized air supply.

To decrease: Replace the air by pushing the valve pin.

1. Air gauge

Standard air pressure:

39.2 kPa (0.4 kg/cm2, 5.7 psi) Maximum air pressure:

118 kPa (1.2 kg/cm2, 17 psi) Minimum air pressure:

39.2 kPa (0.4 kg/cm2, 5.7 psi) * Never exceed the maximum pressure, or oil seal damage may occur.

4. Install the air valve caps securely.

Front fork damping adjuster

1.    Turn the damping adjuster to increase or decrease the damping.

2.    If the damping adjuster is turned toward the "4", the damping becomes harder; if the adjuster is turned toward the "1", damping becomes softer.

Standard position — No. 1

No. 1 — Minimum damping No. 4 — Maximum damping

1. Damping adjuster                  2. Standard position


Always adjust the front forks on each side to the same position. Uneven adjustment will cause an improper riding position.

Rear shodk absorber adjustment 1. Spring preload

If the spring seat is raised, the spring becomes stiffer and if lowered, it becomes softer.

Standard position — A A. position — Softest E. position — Stiffest

2. Damping force

Turn the damping force adjuster by your fingers to increase or decrease the damping force. If it is difficult to turn it with your fingers, use a screw driver.

Standard position — No. 1

No. 1 — Minimum damping force No. 4 — Maximum damping force

1. Damping force adjuster


When adjusting the damping force, the adjuster should be placed in the clicked position. If not, the damping force will be set to the maximum (No. 4).

Always adjust both the right and left absorbers to the same position.

Recommended combination of the front fork and the rear shock absorber. Use this table as guidance to meet specific riding conditions and motorcycle load.



Front fork

Rear shock absorber

Loading condition

Air pressure

Spring seat

Damping adjuster

Solo rider

With passenger

With accessory equipments

With accessory


and passenger


0.4 ~ 0.8 kg/cm2 (5.7 ~ 11.4 psi)





0.4 ~ 0.8 kg/cm2 (5.7-11.4 psi)






0.4 — 0.8 kg/cm2 (5.7 ~ 11.4 psi)






0.8-1.2 kg/cm2 (11.4-17.1 psi)






Front Fork Oil Change

Front Fork Oil Change
xjcdadmin Wed, 05/19/2010 - 13:20

Front fork oil change


1.    Fork oil leakage can cause loss of stability and safe handling. Have any problem corrected before operating the motorcycle.

2.    Securely support the motorcycle so there is no danger of it falling over.

1.  Raise the motorcycle so that there is no weight on the front end of the motorcycle.

2.    Remove the handlebars.

3.    Remove the air valve cap from the left fork.

4.    Keep the valve open by pressing it for several seconds so that the air can be let out of the inner tube.

1. Push

5.    Remove the air valve cap screw and remove the cap from the cap bolt.

6.   Screw out the cap-bolt assembly from the inner tube.

7.    Place an open container under each drain hole. Remove the drain screw from each outer tube.


Do not allow oil to contact the disc brake components. If any oil should contact the brake components it must be removed before the motorcycle is operated. Oil will cause diminished braking capacity and will damage the rubber components of the brake assembly.

8. When most of the oil has drained, slowly raise and lower the outer tubes to pump out the remaining oil.

9. Inspect the drain screw gasket. Replace if damaged. Reinstall the drain screw. 10. Pour the specified amount of oil into the fork inner tube.

Front fork oil (each fork): 257 cm3 (9.0 Imp oz, 8.7 US oz) SAE 10W30 type SE motor oil

11.    After filling, slowly pump the forks up and down to distribute the oil.

12.    Check the O-ring on the cap-bolt assembly for damage, and if necessary, replace it.

1. O-ring

13. Fit the end of cap-bolt assembly rod into the piston in the damper rod. Screw the cap bolt assembly into inner fork tube.

Tightening torque: Cap-bolt assembly  30 Nm (3.0 m-kg, 22 ft-lb)

14. Install the cap on the cap-bolt assembly in the following manner:

a.    Install the cap onto the cap bolt. Do not tighten it.

b.    Turn the cap clockwise to find the No.1 setting:

The No.1 setting is the first click-stop encountered after the cap has been turned 180 degrees in a clockwise direction.

c.    Remove the cap and align the No.1 position on the cap with the arrow mark on the handle crown.

d.    Tighten the cap to the cap-bolt assembly.


Be sure that each number on the cap aligms with the arrow on the handle crown.

1. 180°: No clicks angle.

15. Fill the fork with air using a manual air pump or other pressurized air supply. Refer to "Front fork air adjustment" for proper air pressure adjusting.

Maximum air pressure: 118 kPa (1.2 kg/cm2, 17 psi). Do not exceed this amount.

Steering head, Cables and Pivot points

Steering head, Cables and Pivot points
xjcdadmin Wed, 05/19/2010 - 13:20

F. Steering Head Adjustment

The steering assembly should be checked periodically for looseness.

1.    Raise the front end of the motorcycle so that there is no weight on the front wheel.

2.    Grasp the bottom of the forks and gently rock the fork assembly backward and forward, checking for looseness in the steering assembly bearings.

3.    If there is looseness in the steering head, loosen the steering stem and front fork pinch bolts and steering fitting bolt.

4.    Use a steering nut wrench to loosen top steering fitting nut. The top nut serves as a lock nut.

5.   Tighten the lower steering fitting nut until the steering head is tight, but does not bind when forks are turned.

6.    Retighten the top steering fitting nut, steering fitting bolt and steering stem and front fork pinch bolts, in that order.

7.    Recheck steering adjustment to make sure there is no binding when the forks are moved from lock to lock. If necessary, repeat adjustment procedure.

G. Cable Inspection and Lubrication


Damage to the outer housing of the various cables, may cause corrosion and often free movement will be obstructed. An unsafe condition may result so replace such cables as soon as possible.

1. If the inner cables do not operate smoothly, lubricate or replace them.

Recommended lubricant:

Yamaha Chain and Cable Lube or SAE 10W/30 motor oil

H. Throttle Cable and Grip Lubrication

The throttle twist grip assembly should be greased when the cable is lubricated, since the grip must be removed to get at the end of the throttle cable. Two screws clamp the throttle housing to the handlebar. Once these two are removed, the end of the cable can be held high to pour in several drops of lubricant. With the throttle grip disassembled, coat the metal surface of the grip assembly with a suitable all-purpose grease to cut down friction.

I. Rear Arm Pivot Bearings

The swing arm must pivot freely on its bearings but not have any excess play. Check and adjust pivot bearings if necessary. (Refer to CHAPTER 5. SWING ARM).

J. Brake and Change Pedals/Brake and Clutch Levers

Lubricate the pivoting parts of each lever and pedal.

Recommended lubricant: Yamaha Chain and Cable Lube or SAE 10W/30 motor oil

K.Center and Side Stand Pivots

Lubricate the center and side stands at their pivot points.

Recommended lubricants: Yamaha Chain and Cable Lube or SAE 10W/30 motor oil

Adjustable Footrest

Adjustable Footrest
xjcdadmin Sun, 05/30/2010 - 13:03


Recommended lubricants: Yamaha chain and cable lube or SAE10W30 motor oil

1.    Footrest(Left)
2.    Shift pedal
3.    Shift adjuster
4.    Shift arm
5.    Lock nut (Left thread)
6.    Lock nut
7.    Footrest (Right)
8.    Brake pedal
9.    Brake pedal bush
10.   Brake pedal boss
11.   Brake shaft
12.   Brake rod adjuster
13.   Brake adjuster
14.   Lock nut (Left thread)
15.   Lock nut


Footrest adjustment

Right 1. Loosen the lock nuts and self-locking nut.

1. Lock nut                                 2. Self-locking nut

2. Move the footrest either way to suit the rider's preference. (Six possible positions only) Then secure the self-locking nut.

Tightening torque: 55Nm(5.5m-kg,40ft-lb)

3.    By turning the adjuster clockwise or counterclockwise, adjust the brake pedal position so taht its top end is approx. 20 mm (0.8 in) below the top of the footrest.

4.    Secure the lock nuts.

1.   Adjuster                                  4. Pedal height 20 mm (0.8 in) (For pedal height)
2.   Lock nut                                 5. Free play 20 ~ 30 mm (0.8 ~ 1.2 in)
3.   Footrest                                        


After adjusting the pedal height, the brake pedal free play should be adjusted.

1. Loosen the lock nuts and bolt.

1. Lockout                                 2. Bolt

2. Move the footrest either way to suit the rider's preference. Then secure the bolt.

Tightening torque: 55 Nm (5.5 m-kg, 40 ft-lb)

3.    By turning the adjuster clockwise or counterclockwise, adjust the position of the change pedal so that its peg center is approx. 20 mm (0.8 in) below the top of the footrest.

4.    Secure the lock nuts.


Viewed from the top, both adjusted footrests must be in line with each other.

1.   Adjuster                                  3. Footrest
(For pedal height)                 4. Pedal height 20 mm
(0.8 in)
2.   Lock nut                                     


1. When installing the brake pedal onto the brake shaft, be sure to align their marks. The brake adjuster should be positioned as shown below.

1.   Standard brake adjuster length = 131 mm (5.16 in)
2.   Brake shaft
3.   Brake pedal boss

2. When installing the shift arm onto the shift shaft, align the split portion of the shift arm end with the mark on the crankcase cover. The shift adjuster length should be set as shown below.

1.   Standard shift adjuster length = 94 mm (3.70 in)
2.   Split in the end of shift arm
3.   Crankcase cover mark Angle A = Angle B = 90°

Adjustable Handlebar

Adjustable Handlebar
xjcdadmin Thu, 05/20/2010 - 21:09


Handlebar adjustment

1. Vertical adjustment

a.   Remove the switch lead holding plate, cap, two bolts and pull the grip bar as far either up or down by one notch from the standard position. (Three possible positions only)

b.   Tighten the handlebar grip pinch bolt and stopper bolt.

Tightening torque:
Grip bar stopper bolt: 16 Nm (1.6 m'kg, 11 ft-lb)

Grip bar pinch bolt: 16 Nm (1.6 m-kg, 11 ft-lb)

1.   Cap                                           3. Grip bar pinch bolt
2.   Grip bar stopper bolt           4. Standard position

2. Horizontal adjustment

a. Remove the handlebar cover, bolt cap, handlebar stopper bolt, and pinch bolt. Next pull the handlebar as far away from the handle crown as necessary to permit adjustment. Adjust the handlebar either back or forward by one notch from the standard position. (Three possible positions only)

b. Tighten the handlebar pinch bolt and stopper bolt.

Tightening torque:
Handlebar stopper bolt: 23 (Mm (2.3 m- kg, 17 ft-lb)

Handlebar pinch bolt: 30 Nm (3.0 m-kg, 22 ft-lb)

1.   Cap                                           3. Handlebar pinch bolt
2.   Handlebar stopper bolt                4. Standard position


Never tamper with this adjustment device in an attempt at further adjustment. Otherwise, it may cause:

The handlebar to contact the fuel tank or cables to be pulled rense, and the rider to assume an inappropriate riding position. Always adjust the handlebars on each side to the same position. Uneven adjustment will cause an improper riding position.

Petcock, Brakes and Tires

Petcock, Brakes and Tires
xjcdadmin Sun, 05/30/2010 - 11:13

A. Fuel Petcock

If the fuel petcock is leaking or excessively contaminated, it should be removed from the fuel tank and inspected.

1.    Remove the fuel tank and position it so that fuel will not spill when the petcock is removed.

2.    Remove the petcock and inspect the filter screen. Replace the filter if seriously contaminated.

3.    Remove the screws on the front and rear of the petcock and remove the plate, gaskets, lever, and diaphragm.

4.    Inspect all components and replace any that are damaged. If the diaphragm is in any way damaged, or the petcock body gasket surfaces scratched or corroded, the petcock assembly must be replaced. If there is abrasive damage to any component, the fuel tank must be drained and flushed.

5.    Reassemble the petcock and install it on the fuel tank.

B. Front and Rear Brake

1. Brake adjustment

a. Front brake lever free play adjustment. The brake can be adjusted by simply adjusting the free play of the brake lever. The piston in the caliper moves forward as the brake pad wears out, automatically adjusting the clearance between the brake pads and brake disc.


Proper lever free play is essential to avoid excessive brake drag.

1. Adjuster 2. Lock nut a. 5~8 mm (0.2 - 0.3 in)

1)   Loosen the adjuster lock nut on the brake lever.

2)  Turn the adjuster so that the brake lever movement at the lever end is 5- 8 mm (0.2 ~ 0.3 in) before the adjuster contacts the master cylinder piston.

3)  After adjusting, tighten the lock nut.


Proper lever free play is essential to avoid excessive brake drag.


b. Rear brake pedal height adjustment

1)   Loosen the adjuster lock nut (for pedal height).

2)   By turning the adjuster bolt clockwise or counterclockwise, adjust the brake pedal position so that its top end is approximately 20 mm (0.78 in) below the footrest top end.

3)  Secure the adjuster lock nut.


After adjusting the pedal height, the brake pedal free play should be adjusted.

c. Rear brake pedal free play adjustment

1. Adjuster bolt

3. Footrest

(for pedal height)

4. Pedal height 20 mm [0.8 in)

2. Lock nut

5. Free play 20~ 30 mm (0.8-^ 1.2 in)

Turn the adjuster on the brake rod clockwise or counterclockwise to provide the brake pedal end with a free play of 20 — 30 mm (0.8-1.2 in).


Check to see whether or not the brake light operates correctly after adjusting.

2. Front brake pad and rear brake shoe

check a. Front brake pad

To check, look at the pad in front. If any pad is worn to the wear limit, replace the both pads in the caliper.


1. Wear indicator

b. Rear brake shoe

To check, see the wear indicator position while depressing the brake pedal. If the indicator reaches to the wear limit line, replace the shoes.

1. Wear limit 2. Wear indicator

3. Brake fluid

Insufficient brake fluid may allow air to enter the brake system, possibly causing the brake to become ineffective. Check the brake fluid level and replenish when necessary observing these precautions:

1. Lower level

a.   Use only the designated quality brake fluid; otherwise, the rubber seals may deteriorate, causing leakage and poor brake performance.

Recommended brake fluid: DOT #3

b.   Refill with the same type and brand of brake fluid; mixing fluids may result in a harmful chemical reaction and lead to poor performance.

c.   Be careful that water or other contamination does not enter the master cylinder when refilling. Water will significantly lower the boiling point and may result in vapor lock.

d.   Brake fluid may erode painted surfaces or plastic parts. Always clean up spilled fluid immediately.

C. Tubeless Tires and Aluminum Wheels

This motorcycle is equipped with aluminum wheels designed to be compatible with either tube or tubeless tires. Tubeless tires are installed as standard equipment.


Do not attempt to use tubeless tires on a wheel designed for use only with tube-type tires. Tire failure and personal injury may results from sudden deflation.

Tube-type Wheel — Tube-type tires only

Tubeless-type Wheel — Tube-type or Tubeless tires

When using tube-type tires, be sure to install the proper tube also.

To insure maximum performance, long service, and safe operation, note the following precautions:

1.   Check tire pressure, before riding, adjust as necessary.

2.    Before operation, always check the tire surfaces for wear and/or damage; look for cracks, glass, nails, metal fragments, stones, etc. Correct any such hazard before riding.

3.   Always inspect the aluminum wheels before a ride. Place the motorcycle on the center stand and check for cracks, bends or warpage of the wheels. Do not attempt even small repairs to the wheel. If a wheel is deformed or cracked, it must be replaced.

4.   Tires and wheels should be balanced whenever either one is changed or replaced. Failure to have a wheel assembly balanced can result in poor performance, adverse handling characteristics, and shortened tire life.

5.   After installing a tire, ride conservatively to allow the tire to seat itself on the rim properly. Failure to allow proper seating may cause tire failure resulting in damage to the motorcycle and injury to the rider.

6.   After repairing or replacing a tire, check to be sure the valve stem lock nut is securely fastened. If not, torque it as specified.

Tightening torque: 0.15 m-kg (1.1 ft-lb)


Electrical Maintenance

Electrical Maintenance
xjcdadmin Wed, 05/19/2010 - 13:20


A. Battery

1. The fluid level should be between the upper and lower level marks. Use only distilled water if refilling is necessary.


Normal tap water contains minerals which are harmful to a battery; therefore, refill only with distilled water.

2. Always make sure the connections are correct when installing the battery. Make sure the breather pipe is properly connected, properly routed, and is not damaged or obstructed.


The battery must be charged before using to insure maximum performance. Failure to properly charge the battery before first use, or low electrolyte level will cause premature failure of the battery. Charging current: 1.2 amps/10 hrs or until the specific gravity reaches 1.280 at 20°C (68°F)


Battery electrolyte is poisonous and dangerous, causing severe burns, etc. Contains sulfuric acid. Avoid contact with skin, eyes or clothing. Antidote: EXTERNAL-Flush with water.

INTERNAL—Drink large quantities of water or milk. Follow with milk of magnesia, beaten egg or vegetable oil. Call physician immediately.

Eyes: Flush with water for 15 minutes and get prompt medical attention. Batteries produce explosive gasive gases. Keep sparks, flame, cigarettes, etc. away. Ventilate when charging or using in closed space. Always shield eyes when working near batteries. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.

B. Spark Plug

1. Check the electrode condition and wear, insulator color and electrode gap.

2.    Use a wire gauge for measuring the plug gap.

3.    If the electrodes become too worn, replace the spark plug.

4.    When installing the plug, always clean the gasket surface. Wipe off any grime that might be present on the surface of the spark plug, and torque the spark plug properly.

Standard spark plug: BP7ES (NGK) or W22EP (ND)

Spark plug gap: 0.7 ~ 0.8 mm (0.028 ~ 0.032 in)

Spark plug tightening torque:2.0 m-kg (14.5 ft-lb)

C. Headlight

1. Headlight bulb replacement a. Remove the 2 screws holding the light unit assembly to the headlight body.

b. Disconnect the lead wires and remove the light unit assembly.

c. Remove the top and bottom fitting screws and the horizontal adjusting screw. Remove the light unit assembly from the headlight rim.

d. Remove the sealed beam unit holding screws. Remove the unit retaining ring and the defective unit.

e.   Slip a new sealed beam unit into position and secure it with the retaining ring and install it into the headlight rim.

f.   Reinstall the light unit assembly to the headlight body. Adjust the headlight beam.

2. Headlight beam adjustment

a. Horizontal adjustment

To adjust the beam to the right, turn the adjusting screw clockwise.

To adjust the beam to the left, turn the screw counterclockwise.

b. Vertical adjustment:

Loosen the adjusting screw under the headlight body. Adjust vertically by moving the headlight body. When proper adjustment is determined, retighten the adjusting screw.

D. Fuse

The fuse block is located under the seat. If any fuse is blown, turn off the ignition switch and the switch in the circuit in question and install a new fuse of proper amperage. Then turn on the switches, and see if the electrical device operates. If the fuse immediately blows again, check the circuit in question (refer to "CHAPTER 6. ELECTRICAL").


Do not use fuses of a higher amperage rating than those recommended. Substitution of a fuse of improper rating can cause extensive electrical system damage and possible fire.