Front brake adjustment

The brake can be adjusted by simply adjusting the free play of the brake lever. The piston in the caliper moves forward as the brake pad wears out, automatically adjusting the clearance between the brake pads and brake disc.

CAUTION: Proper lever free play is essential to avoid excessive brake drag.

The free play at the end of the front brake lever should be 5 — 8 mm (0.2 — 0.3 in).

1.      Loosen the lock nut.

2.      Turn the adjuster so that the brake lever movement at the lever end is 5 - 8 mm (0.2 - 0.3 in) before the adjuster contacts the master cylinder piston.

3.      After adjusting, tighten the lock nut

WARNING: Check the brake lever free play. Be sure the brake is working properly.

1 Adjuster 2. Lock nut a. 5 — 8 mm (0.2 — 0.3 in)

Rear brake pedal position adjustment

The brake pedal top end should be 27 - 33 mm (1.1 - 1.3 in) below the top of the footrest.

1.      Remove the brake pedal pinch bolt and remove the brake pedal.

2.      The punched mark on the brake pedal shaft and the punched mark on the brake pedal which must be aligned to install the brake pedal.

3.      Install the brake pedal pinch bolt securely.

1. Pinch bolt 2 Punched marks a. 27 — 33 mm (1.1 —1.3 in)

Rear brake adjustment

The brake pedal free play is set at the factory. This free play ranges from where the brake pedal is trod to where the brake begins to take effect. No adjustment is necessary.

Free play: 20 - 30 mm (0.8 — 1.2 in)

a. 20 - 30 mm {0.8 -1.2 in)

Front and rear brake pad check

A wear indicator is attached to each brake pad to facilitate disc brake pad checks. This indicator permits a visual check without disassembling the pads. To check, look at the pad wear indicator in back of the caliper. If any pad is worn to the wear limit, replace both pads in the caliper.

FRONT

1. Wear indicator

REAR

1 Wear indicator

Inspecting the brake fluid level

Insufficient brake fluid may allow air to enter the brake system, possibly causing the brake to become ineffective. Check the brake fluid level and replenish when necessary observing these precautions:

FRONT

1. Lower level

REAR

1. Lower level

1. Use only the designated quality brake fluid; otherwise, the rubber seals may deteriorate, causing leakage and poor brake performance.

Recommended brake fluid: DOT #3

2.      Refill with the same type and brand of brake fluid; mixing fluids may result in a harmful chemical reaction and lead to poor performance.

3.      Be careful that water or other contamination does not enter the master cylinder when refilling. Water will significantly lower the boiling point and may result in vapor lock.

4.      Brake fluid may erode painted surfaces or plastic parts. Always clean up spilled fluid immediately.

Brake fluid replacement

1.      Complete fluid replacement should be done whenever the caliper cylinder or master cylinder is disassembled, or the fluid becomes seriously contaminated.

2.      Replace the following components whenever damaged or leaking.

a.    Replace all brake seals every two years.

b.    Replace all brake hoses every four years.

c.    Replace the plunger kits every two years.

Brake light switch adjustment

The brake light switch is operated by movement of the brake pedal. To adjust, hold the main body of the switch with your hand so it does not rotate and turn the adjusting nut. Proper adjustment is achieved when the brake light comes on just before the brake begins to take effect.

1. Main body 2. Adjusting nut

Clutch adjustment

This model has two clutch cable length adjusters. The cable length adjusters are used to take up slack from cable stretch and to provide sufficient free play for proper clutch operation. Normally, once the clutch cable length adjuster (crankcase) is properly set; the only adjustment required is maintenance of free play at the clutch cable length adjuster (handlebar lever).

1.      Loosen either the handlebar lever adjuster lock nut or the cable length adjuster lock nut.

2.      Turn the cable length adjuster either in or out until proper lever free play is achieved.

Clutch lever free play: 2 —3 mm (0.08 —0.12 in)

1. Lock nut 2. Adjuster

1. Lock nut 2. Adjuster a. 2 - 3 mm (008 — 0.12 in)

Handlebars adjustment

1. Vertical adjustment

Five-stage adjustment is possible. a. Remove the cap and loosen the grip bar installation bolt.

1. Grip bar bolt

b. Loosen the grip bar and turn and align the adjusting collar either clockwise or counterclockwise. To adjust turn the collar counterclockwise to raise the grip ban turn the collar clockwise to lower the gip bar. (The red mark indicates the standard position.)

NOTE: Check to see that the projection on the handlebar fits a notch in the collar.

2. Horizontal adjustment

Four-stage adjustment is possible. a. Remove the cap and loosen the handlebar installation bolt.

1. Handlebar bolt

b. Loosen the handlebar and turn and align the adjusting collar either clockwise or counterclockwise. To adjust, turn the collar counterclockwise to move the handlebar inward, turn the collar clockwise to move the handlebar outward. (The red make indicates the standard position.)

NOTE: Check to see that the projection on the handlebar fits a notch in the collar.

ELECTRICAL

Battery

1. The fluid level should be between the upper and lower level marks. Use only distillod water if refilling is necessary.

CAUTION: Normal tap water contains minerals which are harmful to a battery; therefore, refill only with distilled water.

2. Always make sure the connections are correct when installing the battery. Make sure the breather pipe is properly connected, properly routed, and is not damaged or obstructed.

CAUTION: The battery must be charged before using to insure maximum performance. Failure to properly charge the battery before first use, or low electrolyte level will cause premature failure of the battery. Charging current: 1.4 amps/10 hrs or until the specific gravity reaches 1.280 at 20°C (68°F)

WARNING: Battery electrolyte is poisonous and dangerous, causing severe burns, etc. It contains sulfuric acid. Avoid contact with skin, eyes or clothing.

Antidote: EXTERNAL-Flush with water. INTERNAL-Drink large quantities of water or milk. Follow with milk of magnesia, beaten egg, or vegetable oil. Call physician immediately.

Eyes: Flush with water for 15 minutes and get prompt medical attention. Batteries produce explosive gasive gases. Keep sparks, flame, cigarettes, etc. away. Ventilate when charging or using in closed space. Always shield eyes when working near batteries. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.

Spark plug

1.      Check the electrode condition and wear, insulator color and electrode gap.

2.      Use a wire gauge for measuring the plug gap.

3.      If the electrodes become too worn, replace the spark plug.

4.      When installing the plug, always clean the gasket surface. Wipe off any grime that might be present on the surface of the spark plug, and torque the spark plug properly.

Standard spark plug:

BPR8ES (NGK) Spark plug gap:

0.7 - 0.8 mm (0.028 ~ 0.032 in) Spark plug tightening torque:

20 Nm (2.0 mkg, 14 fMb)

Replacing the headlight bulb

This motorcycle is equipped with a quartz bulb headlight. If the headlight bulb burns out, replace the bulb as follows: 1. Remove the 2 screws holding the light unit assembly to the headlight body.

2.      Disconnect the leads, and remove the light unit assembly.

3.      Turn the bulb holder couterclockwise and remove the defective bulb.

WARNING: Keep flammable products or your hands away from the bulb while it is on, it will be hot. Do not touch the bulb until it cools down.

4. Slip a new bulb into position and secure it in place with the bulb holder.

CAUTION: Avoid touching the glass part of the bulb. Keep it free from oil; otherwise, the transparency of the glass, life of the bulb, and illuminous flux will be adversely affected. If oil gets on the bulb, throughly clean it with a cloth moistened with alcohol or lacquer thinner.

1. Don't touch

5. Reinstall the light unit assembly to the headlight body. Adjust the headlight beam if necessary.

Headlight beam adjustment

1.      Horizontal adjustment:

To adjust the beam to the left, turn the adjusting screw clockwise. To adjust the beam to the right turn the screw counterclockwise.

2.      Vertical adjustment:

To raise the beam, turn the adjusting screw clockwise.

To lower the beam, turn the screw counterclockwise.

1. Horizontal adjusting screw 2. Vertical adjusting screw

Fuse replacement

1.      The fuse block is located under the seat.

2.      If any fuse is blown, turn off the ignition switch and the switch in the circuit in question, install a new fuse of proper amperage.

Turn on the switches, and see if the electrical device operates. If the fuse immediately blows again, find the cause in the circuit in question.

1. Main fuse 2. Spare fuse

WARNING: Do not use fuses of a higher amperage rating than those recommended. Substitution of a fuse of improper rating can cause extensive electrical system damage and possible fire.

Generator brushes replacement

The generator carbon brushes require periodical replacement.

1.      Remove the generator cover screws and the left side generator cover.

2.      Remove the screws and separate the brushes assembly from the cover.

3. Remove the panhead screws and replace the old brushes to new ones.

Fuel petcock cleaning

1.      Turn the fuel petcock lever to the "RES". Remove the fuel pipe from the fuel petcock.

2.      Remove the seat, the fuel tank clamp, and the fuel-tank-retainer plate.

3.      Lift the tank and remove the drain cover and clean it with solvent. If gasket is damaged, replace.

1. Drain cover

Fuel petcock disassembly

If the fuel petcock is leaking or excessively contaminated, it should be removed from the fuel tank and inspected.

1.      Remove the fuel tank and position it so that fuel will not spill when the cock is removed.

2.      Remove the petcock and inspect the filter screen. Replace the filter if seriously contaminated.

3.      Remove the screws on front and rear of the petcock and remove the plate, gaskets, lever, and diaphragm.

4.      Inspect all components and replace any that are damaged. If the diaphragm is in any way damaged, or the petcock body gasket surfaces scratched or corroded, the petcock assembly must be replaced. If there is abrasive damage to any component, the fuel tank must be drained and flushed.

5.      Reassemble the petcock and install it on the fuel tank.

Cable inspection and lubrication

WARNING: Damage to the outer housing of the various cables, may cause corrosion and often free movement will be obstructed. An unsafe condition may result so replace such cables as soon as possible.

Lubricate the inner cable and cable end. If they do not operate smoothly, replace them.

Recommended lubricant: SAE 10W30 motor oil

Throttle cable and grip lubrication

The throttle twist grip assembly should be greased when the cable is lubricated, since the grip must be removed to get at the end of the throttle cable. Two screws clamp the throttle housing to the handlebar. Once these two are removed, the end of the cable can be held high to pour in several drops of lubricant. With the throttle grip disassembled, coat the metal surface of the grip assembly with a suitable all-purpose grease to cut down friction.

Rear arm pivot bearings

The swing arm must pivot freely on its bearings but not have any excess play. Check and adjust pivot bearings if necessary. (Refer to CHAPTER 5. SWING ARM).

Brake and change pedals/brake and clutch levers

Lubricate the pivoting parts of each lever and pedal.

Recommended lubricants: SAE 10W30 motor oil

Center and side stand pivots

Lubricate the center and side stands at their pivot points.

Recommended lubricants: SAE 10W30 motor oil

Steering head adjustment

1. Raise the front end of the motorcycle so that there is no weight on the front wheel.

WARNING: Securely support the motorcycle so there is no danger of it falling over.

2. Grasp the bottom of the forks and gently rock the fork assembly backward and forward, checking for looseness in the steering assembly bearings.

3. If there is looseness in the steering head, loosen the steering fitting bolt

1. Steering fitting bolt 2. Steering fitting nut

4. Use steering nut wrench to loosen top steering fitting nut. The top nut serves as a lock nut.

1. Steering nut wrench

5.      Tighten the lower steering fitting nut until the steering head is tight but does not bind when forks are turned.

6.      Retighten the top steering fitting nut and steering fitting bolt.

7.      Recheck steering adjustment to make sure there is no binding when the forks are moved from lock to lock. If necessary, repeat adjustment procedure.

Front fork oil change

WARNING.

1.      Fork oil leakage can cause loss of stability and safe handling. Have any problem corrected before operating the motorcycle.

2.      Securely support the motorcycle so there is no danger of it falling over.

Raise:

• Motorcycle front end

Remove:

•   Handle bar rubber cap

•   Handle bar securing screw 1

•   Handle bar

Remove:

•   Front fork rubber cap

•   Cap bolt 1

Place:

•   Receptacle under each drain hole,

Remove:

• Drain screw 1

WARNING: Danger do not allow oil to contact disc brake components. Remove any oil found on these components to avoid diminished braking capacity.

After most of the oil has drained, slowly raise and lower outer tubes to pump out remaining oil.

Inspect:

• Drain screw gasket. If damaged, replace it.

 

Install:

•   Drain screw gasket

•   Drain screw

Pour:

•   Specified fork oil into Inner fork

SAE 10W30 Type SE Motor Oil: Oil Capacity (each fork):

286 ± 4cm³ (10.1± 0.14 Imp oz, 9.67±0.14USoz)

Slowly pump forks up and down to distribute the oil after filling.

Inspect:

• Cap bolt O-ring.1.  Replace if damaged.

Install:

• Cap bolt

Cap bolt: 23 Nm (2.3m-kg, 17 ft-lb)

Install:

• Front fork rubber cap 1

Install:

•   Handle bar

•   Handle bar securing screw

Handle bar securing screw:

93 Nm (9.3 m.kg, 67 ft-lb)

Install:

• Handle bar rubber cap

 

Rear shock absorber adjustment:

The rear shock absorber of this model features a spring seat, which is a combined spring preload and damping adjuster. Normal adjustment can be made by turning this spring seat; whereas damping adjustment only can be made by the damping adjuster.

CAUTION: Before adjustment, make sure of the following:

1.      Turn in the damping adjuster fully. Then turn it back until its red painted slit aligns with the pointer "▼" on the spring cover.

2.      For alignment in the absence of the red paint, turn the damping adjuster 6 clicks back from the fully turned-in position.

1. Spring seat adjustment

To increase the preload, turn the spring seat clockwise. To decrease the preload, turn the spring seat counterclockwise.

NOTE: When adjusting, use the special wrench which is included in the owner's tool kit

	Hard -------------------------------Soft
Mark

1. Spring seat

2. Damping adjustment

To increase the damping, turn the adjuster clockwise. To decrease the damping, turn the adjuster counterclockwise.

Standard position:

6 clicks turns out (or red mark) Minimum 12 clicks turns out Maximum 1 clicks turn out

NOTE: Make adjustment in less than one full turn of the adjuster.

1. Damping adjuster

Recommended combinations of the front fork and the rear shock absorber settings.

Use this table as guidance to meet specific riding and motorcycle load conditions.

	Rear shock absorber		Loading condition
	Spring seat	Damping adjuster turns out	Solo rider	With passenger	With accessory equipment	With accessory equipments and passenger
1		6	O
2		4		0
3		4			O
4		3				O

* Each numeral shows the damping value which can be set when the pointer is aligned with the individual slit in the spring seat. The damping adjuster may be further turned for a softer or a harder damping; in each of the above settings, it is recommended that the damping be adjusted by one (1) or two (2) clicks on the softer side and one (1) click on the harder side.

 

Cam chain adjustment

This model has been equipped with the automatic cam chain tensioner. No adjustment is necessary.

Ignition timing check

1. Ignition timing is checked with a timing light by observing the position of the stationary pointer and the marks stamped on the timing plate.

The timing plate is marked as follows:
	.. Firing range for No. 1 (L.H.) cylinder
	.. Top Dead Center for No. 1 (L.H.) and No. 4 (R.H.) cylinders

2.      Connect the timing light to No. 1 (L.H.) spark plug lead.

3.      Start the engine and keep the engine speed as specified. Use a tachometer to check the engine speed.

Specified engine speed: 1,050 r/min

4. The stationary pointer should be within the limits of "["]" on the timing plate. If it exceeds the limits or does not steady, check the timing plate for tightness and/ or ignition system for damage. (See "CHAPTER 6. ELECTRICAL)

CAUTION:

Never bend the stationary pointer.

Air filter

1. Removal

a.    Remove the seat.

b.    Remove the left and right side covers.

c.    Remove the tool box.

d.    Lift and loosen the electric fitting housing box from the frame.

e.    Remove the air filter case cover by removing the four screws.

f. Pull out the element.

1. Air filter element

2. Cleaning method

Tap the element lightly to remove most of the dust and dirt; then blow out the remaining dirt with compressed air from the inner surface of the element. If element is damaged, replace it.

3.      Reassemble by reversing the removal procedure. Check whether the element is seated completely against the case.

4.      The air filter element should be cleaned at the specified intervals.

CAUTION:

The engine should never be run without the air cleaner element installed; excessive piston and/or cylinder wear may result.

Idle mixture setting

The idle mixture is set at the factory by the use of special equipment. No attempt should be made by the dealer to change this adjustment

Carburetor synchronization

The seat must be removed and the rear of the tank elevated to gain access to the vacuum connections and synchronizing screw.

NOTE:

The valve clearances must be set properly before synchronizing the carburetors.

NOTE:

The carburetors are numbered 1, 2, 3, and 4 from the left when viewed from astride the motorcycle.

1. Remove the vacuum pipe from the carburetor manifold (No. 3 cylinder) and turn the fuel cock to "PRI."

2. Remove the rubber caps from the No. 1, 2, and 4 carburetor manifolds.

1. Rubber cap

3. Remove either the left or right (but not both) blind plug at the end of the YICS (Yamaha Induction Control System) passage in the cylinder.

1 Blind plug

4.      Insert the YICS shut-off tool (special tool) fully and flip the locking lever.

5.      Connect each vacuum gauge hose to its proper carburetor.

1. Vacuum gauge

6.      Start the engine and allow it to warm up for a few minutes. The warm-up is complete when the engine responds normally to the throttle opening.

7.      Make sure the engine idle speed is 950 ~- 1,000 r/min. If it is not adjust the idle speed with the throttle stop screw.

NOTE:

With the YICS shut off tool fitted, the engine speed generally drops a little. Thus, continue with the following steps at an idle speed of 950 — 1,000 r/min.

8. Each gauge reading will indicate the same if the carburetors are synchronized. The No. 3 carburetor has no synchronizing screw, and the other carburetors are to be synchronized to it in order, one at a time. First, synchronize carburetor No. 1 to carburetor No. 2 by turning the No. 1 synchronizing screw until both gauges read the same.

Second, in the same way synchronize carburetor No. 4 to carburetor No. 3. Third, by adjusting No. 2 screw, watch No. 3 carburetor reading. No. 1 and No. 2 carburetors will both change to match No. 3 carburetor.

9. Remove the YICS shut-off tool and reinstall the blind plug.

Tightening torque:

22 Nm (2.2 mkg, 16 ft-lb)

10. Check the idle speed. Adjust if necessary.

Idle speed adjustment

NOTE:

Carburetors must be synchronized before setting the final idle speed. The idle speed adjustment is made by turning only one throttle stop screw.

1.      The engine must be warmed up, before setting the idle speed.

2.      Set the engine idle speed by turning the throttle stop screw in (to increase engine speed) or out (to decrease engine speed).

Standard idle speed: 1,100 r/min

1. Throttle stop screw

Engine oil level measurement

1.      Place the motorcycle on its centerstand. Warm up the engine for several minutes.

NOTE:

Be sure the motorcycle is positioned straight up when checking the oil level; a slight tilt toward the side can produce false readings.

2.      With the engine stopped, check the oil level through the level window located at the lower part of the right side crankcase cover.

NOTE:

Wait a few minutes until the oil level settles before checking.

1. Level window 2. Maximum mark 3. Minimum mark

3. The oil level should be between maximum level and minimum marks. If the level is lower, add sufficient oil to raise it to the proper level.

Engine oil and oil filter replacement

1.      Start the engine and stop it after a few minutes of warm-up.

2.      Place an oil pan under the engine and remove the oil filler cap.

3.      Remove the drain plug and drain the oil.

4.      Remove the #2 exhaust pipe.

5.      Remove the oil filter bolt and filter element.

1. Drain plug

1. Oil filter cover

6. Reinstall the drain plug (make sure it is tight).

Drain plug torque: 43 Nm (4.3 m-kg, 31 ft lb)

7. Install the new oil filter element new CD-ring and filter cover; tighten the oil filter bolt.

Oil filter bolt torque:

15 Nm (1.5 m-kg, 11 ft-lb)

NOTE:

Make sure the O-ring is positioned properly.

8. Install the #2 exhaust pipe.

Tightening torque: 8 Nm (0.8 m-kg, 5.8 ft-lb)

9. Add oil through the oil filler hole.

Periodic oil change:

2.5 L (2.2 Imp qt 2.6 US qt)

With oil filter replacement:

2.8 L (2.5 Imp qt, 3.0 US qt)

Recommended oil:

SAE 20W40 type SE motor oil SAE 10W30 type SE motor oil

CAUTION:

Take care not to allow foreign material to enter the crankcase.

10. After replacement of the engine oil, and/ or oil filter, be sure to check for oil leakage. The oil level indicator light should go off after the oil is filled.

CAUTION:

If the indicator light flickers or remains on, the oil level switch may be damaged. Refer to "CHAPTER 6" for corrective action.

Final gear oil level measurement

1.      Place the motorcycle on a level place and place it on the centerstand. The engine should be cool (at atmospheric temperature).

2.      Remove the oil filler cap and check the oil level whether it is to the hole brim. If it is not up to this level, replenish oil.

1. Final gear oil 2. Correct oil level

CAUTION:

Take care not to allow foreign material to enter the final gear case.

Final gear oil replacement

1.      Place an oil pan under the final gear case.

2.      Remove the final gear oil filler cap and the drain plug, and drain the oil.

1. Final gear drain plug

3.      Reinstall and tighten the final gear drain plug.

4.      Fill the gear case to the specified level.

Oil capacity:

Final gear case:

0.2 L (0.18 Imp qt, 0.21 US qt) Recommended oil:

SAE 80 API "GL-4" Hypoid gear oil If desired, an SAE 80W90 hypoid gear oil may be used for all conditions.

5. Reinstall the filler cap securely.

Compression pressure measurement

Insufficient compression pressure will result in performance loss and may indicate leaking valves or worn or damaged piston rings.

Procedure:

1.      Make sure the valve clearance is correct

2.     Warm up the engine 2—3 minutes. Stop the engine.

3.      Remove the all spark plugs.

4.      Install a compression check gauge.

5. Turn over the engine with the electric starter (make sure the battery is fully charged) with the throttle wide open until the pressure indicated on the gauge does not increase further.

Compression pressure (at sea level): Standard

981 kPa (10 kg/cm², 142 psi) Minimum

785 kPa (8 kg/cm², 114 psi) Maximum

1,177 kPa (12 kg/cm², 171 psi)

WARNING:

When cranking the engine, ground the removal spark plug leads to prevent sparking.

1. Compression gauge

6.      If the pressure is too low, squirt a few drops of oil into the cylinder being measured. Measure compression again. If there is a higher reading than before (without oil), the piston rings may be worn or damaged. If the pressure remains the same after measuring with the oil, either or both the rings and valves may be the cause.

7.      Check each cylinder. Compression pressure should not vary more than 98.1 kPa (1 kg/cm², 14 psi) from one cylinder to any other cylinder.

NOTE:

Valve clearance must be measured with the engine and at room temperature.

1. Remove the seat and remove the fuel tank holding clip and retainer.

1. Clip 2. Retainer

2.      Remove the starter (CHOKE) wire and spark plug leads.

1. Starter (CHOKE) wire

3.      Remove the cylinder head cover and left crankcase cover (pick-up base cover). Care should be taken to not scratch or damage the gasket sealing surfaces.

4.      Turn the crankshaft with the nut on the left end of the crankshaft to turn the cams. The proper position of the cam when measuring the valve clearance is with the cam lobe directly opposite the valve lifter.

5.      Insert a feeler gauge between the valve lifter and the camshaft base circle.

Intake valve clearance (cold):

0.11 - 0.15 mm (0.0043 ~~ 0.0059 in)

Exhaust valve clearance (cold):

0.16 — 0.20 mm (0.0063 — 0.0079 in)

Valve clearance adjustment

Valve clearance is adjusted by replacing the adjusting pad on the top of the valve lifter. Adjusting pads are available in 25 thicknesses ranging from No. 200 (2.00 mm) to No. 320 (3.20 mm) in steps of 0.05 mm. The thickness of each pad is marked on the pad face that contacts the valve lifter (not the cam). Adjustment of the valve clearance is accomplished as follows:

1.      Determine valve clearance (feeler gauge measurement.)

2.      Remove adjusting pad and note number.

3.      Select proper pad from appropriate chart (intake or exhaust chart).

4.      Install new pad andcheck installed clearance.

Pad selection procedure

1.      Measure valve clearance. If clearance is incorrect record the measured amount of clearance. This must be measured carefully.

2.      There is a slot in the valve lifter. This slot must be positioned opposite the blade of the tappet adjusting tool before the tools is installed.

3.      Turn the cam until the lobe fully depresses the valve lifter and opens the valve. Install the tappet adjusting tool as shown to hold the lifter in this depressed position.

NOTE:

The tappet adjusting tool is fastened to the cylinder head securely using an alien screw. Make sure that the tool contacts the lifter only, and not the pad.

CAUTION:

If the cam lobe touches the tappet adjusting tool, the stress may fracture the cylinder head. DO NOT ALLOW THE CAM LOBE TO CONTACT THE TAPPET ADJUSTING TOOL.

1. Tappet adjusting tool

4. Carefully rotate the cam so that the pad can be removed. To avoid cam touching the adjusting tool, turn cams as follows: (view from left side of the motorcycle)

Intake: Carefully rotate CLOCKWISE. Exhaust: Carefully rotate COUNTERCLOCKWISE.

5. Remove the pad from the lifter. There is a slot in the lifter. Use a small screwdriver or other blade and tweezers or a magnetic rod to remove the pad. Note the number on the pad.

1 Adjusting pad

6  Proper pad selection is made as follows:

Chart lookup method:

Refer to the appropriate chart for exhaust or intake valves:

0.11 to 0.15mm required clearance (Intake side) chart

0.15 to 0.20mm required clearance (Exhaust side) chart

 

a.   Find number of original (installed) pad number on chart. Read down on chart.

b.   Find measured valve clearance (from step 1) on chart. Read across.

c.   At the intersection of installed pad number (down) and measured clearance (across) is a new pad number.

EXAMPLE:

Intake valve, installed pad: No. 250 (read down)
Measured clearance:0.32 mm (read across)
New pad number: No. 270(intersection of down & across)

Alternate shim calculation method:

Since all shims come in .05mm (.002") increments, you can quickly calculate the required size without a chart.

If the measured clearance is within 0.05mm (0.002") of the required clearance, then no change is needed.

If the measured clearance greater than 0.05mm (0.002") but 0.10mm (0.004") or less different than the required clearance then the next size shim is required.

If the measured clearance greater than 0.10mm (0.004") but 0.15mm (0.006") or less different than the required clearance then the next size shim is required.

Clearances that are too small require thinner shims. Clearances that are too large require thicker shims.

Example: Required exhaust valve clearance is 0.16~0.20mm. Measured clearance is 0.12mm (gap too small). Installed shim is Y270. Required shim is one size thinner: Y265.

 

NOTE:

The new pad number is to be used as a guide only. Verify the correctness of this choice in the following step(s).

7.      Install the new pad in the lifter. Install the pad with the number down.

8.      Remove tappet adjusting tool.

9.      Turn crankshaft to rotate cam several rotations. This will set the pad in the lifter.

10.   Check valve clearance (step 3). If clearance is incorrect, repeat preceding steps until proper clearance is obtained.

11.   Inspect head cover gasket. If bent or torn, replace gasket.

12.   Reinstall removed parts in reverse order.