Chassis Maintenance

Chassis Maintenance xjcdadmin Thu, 04/23/2009 - 15:15

Front Fork, Rear Shock and Anti-Dive adjustment

Front Fork, Rear Shock and Anti-Dive adjustment xjcdadmin Tue, 04/28/2009 - 10:49

Front fork and rear shock absorber adjustment

Front fork:

1.    Elevate the front wheel by placing the motorcycle on the center stand.

NOTE:

When checking and adjusting the air pressure, there should be no weight on the front end of the motorcycle.

2.    Remove the air valve caps from each fork.

3.    Using the air gauge, check and adjust the air pressure.

If the air pressure is increased, the suspension becomes stiffer and if decreased, it becomes softer. To increase:

Use a manual air pump or other pressurized air supply. To decrease: Replace the air by pushing the valve pin.

1. Air gauge


Standard air pressure:

0.4 kg/cm2 (5.7 psi) Maximum air pressure:

2.5 kg/cm2 (36 psi) Minimum air pressure: Zero

*   Never exceed the maximum pressure, or oil seal damage may occur.

*   The difference between both the left and right tubes should be 0.1 kg/cm2 (1.4 psi) or less.

4. Install the air valve caps securely.

 

Rear shock absorber:

1. Spring preload

If the spring seat is raised, the spring becomes stiffer and if lowered, it becomes softer.

Standard position — A A. position — Softest E. position — Stiffest

2. Damping force

Turn the damping force adjuster by your fingers to increase or decrease the damping force. If it is difficult to turn it with your fingers, use a screw driver.

Standard position — No. 1

No. 1 — Minimum damping force No. 4 — Maximum damping force

NOTE:

When adjusting the damping force, the adjuster should be placed in the clicked position. If not, the damping force will be set to the maximum (No. 4).

Always adjust both the right and left absorbers to the same position.

1. Damping force adjuster

Recommended combinations of the front fork and the rear shock absorber.                                           

  Use this table as guidance to meet specific  riding conditions and motorcycle load.

 

\

Front fork

Rear shock absorber

Loading condition

Air pressure

Spring seat

Damping adjuster

Solo rider

With passenger

With accessory equipments

With accessory

equipments

and passenger

1.

0.4 ~ 0.8 kg/cm2 (5.7 ~ 11.4 psi)

A~C

1

O

     

2.

0.4 ~ 0.8 kg/cm2 (5.7-11.4 psi)

A~C

2

O

O

   

3.

0.4 — 0.8 kg/cm2 (5.7 ~ 11.4 psi)

C~E

3

 

O

O

 

4.

0.8-1.2 kg/cm2 (11.4-17.1 psi)

E

4

   

O

O

 

WARNING:

The anti-dive setting must be the same on both anti-dive units.

 

Anti-dive adjustment

1.    Remove the rubber cap from the bottom of the anti-dive unit.

2.   Observe the head of the adjusting bolt through the machines slot{s) in the bottom of the anti-dive unit. In the standard position, four lines will be visible on the adjusting bolt head. Consult the fork adjustment chart below to determine the proper setting.


1. Rubber cap           2. Adjusting bolt

To decrease the anti-dive effect, turn the adjusting bolt counter-clockwise until the head appears level to the top of the machined slot(s).

WARNING

When the first line appears in the machined slot(s), the adjusting bolt will bottom in the anti-dive unit and a resistance will be felt. Do not attempt to turn the adjusting bolt beyond this point, or the anti-dive unit will be damaged.


1. Machined slot

4.   To increase the anti-dive effect, turn the adjusting bolt clockwise.

5.    Replace the rubber cap.

WARNING

The anti-dive settings must be the same on both anti-dive units. Hence, be sure to perform the above procedure on both anti-dive units.

Adjusting bolt
position

Loading condition

Solo rider

With accessory equipments or passenger

With accessory equipments and passenger

1(head flush)

O

 

 

2

O

O

 

3

O

O

O

4

 

O

O

5(4 lines showing)

 

 

O

 

 

 

Front Fork Oil Change

Front Fork Oil Change xjcdadmin Thu, 04/30/2009 - 20:02

FRONT FORK

Front fork oil change

1.    Fork oil leakage can cause loss of stability and safe handling. Have any problem corrected before operating the motorcycle.

2.   Securely support the motorcycle so there is no danger of it falling over.

1.    Raise the motorcycle or remove the front wheel so that there Is no weight on the front end of the motorcycle.

2.    Remove the center handlebar cover and handlebar.

 

3. Remove the rubber cap from the top of each fork.


1. Rubber cap

 

4.    Remove the air valve caps from the each fork.

5.    Keep the valve open by pressing it for several seconds so that the air can be let out of the inner tube.

1. Push


  WARNING: 

6.    The spring seat and fork spring are retained by a stopper ring (spring wire cir-clip). It is necessary to depress the spring seat and fork spring to remove the stopper ring. Remove the stopper ring by carefully prying out one end with a small screwdriver.

7.    Place an open container under each drain hole. Remove the drain screw from each anti-dive unit.

WARNING

Do not allow oil to contact the disc brake components. If any oil should contact the brake components it must be removed before the motorcycle is operated. Oil will cause diminished braking capacity and will damage the rubber components of the brake assembly.


1. Drain screw          2. Rubber cap


8.   When most of the oil has drained, slowly raise and lower the outer tubes to pump out the remaining oil.

9.    Inspect the drain screw gasket. Replace if damaged. Reinstall the drain screw.

10. Pour the specified amount of oil into the fork inner tube.

Front fork oil (each fork): 309 cc (10.5 oz) Yamaha Fork Oil 20Wt or equivalent

11.    After filling, slowly pump the forks up and down to distribute the oil.

12.    Inspect the O-ring on the spring seat. Replace O-ring if damaged.

1. Spring seat 2. O-ring


13. Reinstall the spring seat and fill the fork with air using a manual air pump or other pressurized air supply. Refer to "Front fork and rear shock absorber adjustment" for proper air pressure adjusting.

 

Always use a new stopper ring (spring wire circlip).

Maximum air pressure: 2.5 kg/cm2 (36 psi) Do not exceed this amount.

 

Steering head, Cables and Pivot points

Steering head, Cables and Pivot points xjcdadmin Thu, 04/30/2009 - 20:09

F. Steering Head Adjustment

The steering assembly should be checked periodically for looseness.

1.    Raise the front end of the motorcycle so that there is no weight on the front wheel.

2.    Grasp the bottom of the forks and gently rock the fork assembly backward and forward, checking for looseness in the steering assembly bearings.

3.    If there is looseness in the steering head, loosen the steering stem and front fork pinch bolts and steering fitting bolt.

4.    Use a steering nut wrench to loosen top steering fitting nut. The top nut serves as a lock nut.

5.   Tighten the lower steering fitting nut until the steering head is tight, but does not bind when forks are turned.

6.    Retighten the top steering fitting nut, steering fitting bolt and steering stem and front fork pinch bolts, in that order.

7.    Recheck steering adjustment to make sure there is no binding when the forks are moved from lock to lock. If necessary, repeat adjustment procedure.

G. Cable Inspection and Lubrication 

—WARNING:--

Damage to the outer housing of the various cables, may cause corrosion and often free movement will be obstructed. An unsafe condition may result so replace such cables as soon as possible.

1. If the inner cables do not operate smoothly, lubricate or replace them.

Recommended lubricant:

Yamaha Chain and Cable Lube or SAE 10W/30 motor oil

H. Throttle Cable and Grip Lubrication

The throttle twist grip assembly should be greased when the cable is lubricated, since the grip must be removed to get at the end of the throttle cable. Two screws clamp the throttle housing to the handlebar. Once these two are removed, the end of the cable can be held high to pour in several drops of lubricant. With the throttle grip disassembled, coat the metal surface of the grip assembly with a suitable all-purpose grease to cut down friction.

I. Rear Arm Pivot Bearings

The swing arm must pivot freely on its bearings but not have any excess play. Check and adjust pivot bearings if necessary. (Refer to CHAPTER 5. SWING ARM).

J. Brake and Change Pedals/Brake and Clutch Levers

Lubricate the pivoting parts of each lever and pedal.

Recommended lubricant: Yamaha Chain and Cable Lube or SAE 10W/30 motor oil

K.Center and Side Stand Pivots

Lubricate the center and side stands at their pivot points.

Recommended lubricants: Yamaha Chain and Cable Lube or SAE 10W/30 motor oil

Petcock, Brakes and Tires

Petcock, Brakes and Tires xjcdadmin Wed, 04/29/2009 - 22:54

A. Fuel Petcock

If the fuel petcock is leaking or excessively contaminated, it should be removed from the fuel tank and inspected.

1.    Remove the fuel tank and position it so that fuel will not spill when the petcock is removed.

2.    Remove the petcock and inspect the filter screen. Replace the filter if seriously contaminated.

3.    Remove the screws on the front and rear of the petcock and remove the plate, gaskets, lever, and diaphragm.

4.    Inspect all components and replace any that are damaged. If the diaphragm is in any way damaged, or the petcock body gasket surfaces scratched or corroded, the petcock assembly must be replaced. If there is abrasive damage to any component, the fuel tank must be drained and flushed.

5.    Reassemble the petcock and install it on the fuel tank.

B. Front and Rear Brake

1. Brake adjustment

a. Front brake lever free play adjustment. The brake can be adjusted by simply adjusting the free play of the brake lever. The piston in the caliper moves forward as the brake pad wears out, automatically adjusting the clearance between the brake pads and brake disc.

—CAUTION:--

Proper lever free play is essential to avoid excessive brake drag.

1. Adjuster 2. Lock nut a. 5~8 mm (0-2

1)   Loosen the adjuster lock nut on the brake lever.

2)  Turn the adjuster so that the brake lever movement at the lever end is 5- 8 mm (0.2 ~ 0.3 in) before the adjuster contacts the master cylinder piston.

3)  After adjusting, tighten the lock nut. b. Rear brake pedal height adjustment

1)   Loosen the adjuster lock nut (for pedal height).

2)   By turning the adjuster bolt clockwise or counterclockwise, adjust the brake pedal position so that its top end is approximately 20 mm (0.78 in) below the footrest top end.

3)  Secure the adjuster lock nut.

WARNING:-

After adjusting the pedal height, the brake pedal free play should be adjusted.

c. Rear brake pedal free play adjustment

1. Adjuster bolt

3. Footrest

(for pedal height)

4. Pedal height 20 mm [0.8 in)

2. Lock nut

5. Free play 20~ 30 mm (0.8-^ 1.2 in)

Turn the adjuster on the brake rod clockwise or counterclockwise to provide the brake pedal end with a free play of 20 — 30 mm (0.8-1.2 in).

NOTE:-

Check to see whether or not the brake light operates correctly after adjusting.

2. Front brake pad and rear brake shoe

check a. Front brake pad

To check, look at the pad in front. If any pad is worn to the wear limit, replace the both pads in the caliper.

Front

1. Wear indicator

b. Rear brake shoe

To check, see the wear indicator position while depressing the brake pedal. If the indicator reaches to the wear limit line, replace the shoes.

1. Wear limit 2. Wear indicator

3. Brake fluid

Insufficient brake fluid may allow air to enter the brake system, possibly causing the brake to become ineffective. Check the brake fluid level and replenish when necessary observing these precautions:

1. Lower level

a.   Use only the designated quality brake fluid; otherwise, the rubber seals may deteriorate, causing leakage and poor brake performance.

Recommended brake fluid: DOT #3

b.   Refill with the same type and brand of brake fluid; mixing fluids may result in a harmful chemical reaction and lead to poor performance.

c.   Be careful that water or other contamination does not enter the master cylinder when refilling. Water will significantly lower the boiling point and may result in vapor lock.

d.   Brake fluid may erode painted surfaces or plastic parts. Always clean up spilled fluid immediately.

C. Tubeless Tires and Aluminum Wheels

This motorcycle is equipped with aluminum wheels designed to be compatible with either tube or tubeless tires. Tubeless tires are installed as standard equipment.

—WARNING:-

Do not attempt to use tubeless tires on a wheel designed for use only with tube-type tires. Tire failure and personal injury may results from sudden deflation. Tube-type Wheel — Tube-type tires only Tubeless-type Wheel — Tube-type or

Tubeless tires When using tube-type tires, be sure to install the proper tube also.

To insure maximum performance, long service, and safe operation, note the following precautions:

1.   Check tire pressure, before riding, adjust as necessary.

2.    Before operation, always check the tire surfaces for wear and/or damage; look for cracks, glass, nails, metal fragments, stones, etc. Correct any such hazard before riding.

3.   Always inspect the aluminum wheels before a ride. Place the motorcycle on the center stand and check for cracks, bends or warpage of the wheels. Do not attempt even small repairs to the wheel. If a wheel is deformed or cracked, it must be replaced.

4.   Tires and wheels should be balanced whenever either one is changed or replaced. Failure to have a wheel assembly balanced can result in poor performance, adverse handling characteristics, and shortened tire life.

5.   After installing a tire, ride conservatively to allow the tire to seat itself on the rim properly. Failure to allow proper seating may cause tire failure resulting in damage to the motorcycle and injury to the rider.

6.   After repairing or replacing a tire, check to be sure the valve stem lock nut is securely fastened. If not, torque it as specified.

Tightening torque:                                        

0.15 m-kg (1.1 ft-lb)